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DAY 1 – EN ROUTE
You will arrive at Venice Marco Polo International Airport the next day.
DAY 2 - ARRIVAL - VENICE ORIENTATION
After getting your luggage, purchase a ticket for the launch inside the terminal and be taken to the main stop - San Marco . From here you catch the waterbus (purchase tickets) and stop at the closest stop to your hotel. (We will tell you where to get off). Alternatively take the water taxi ($70) and be taken to your hotel's doorstop. The ride is memorable, but expensive. Ride takes 30 minutes by water bus.
If included in your package you will be met by your transfer service outside customs.
Rest and unpack and then head for the main square - San Marco and take an orientation walk. Sip a cappuccino at one of the outdoor café's, walk along the seashore and admire the view across the lagoon of St. George's Church. In the evening there is a Hungarian orchestra playing outside on San Marco at the famous Café' Florian.
DAY 3 - DOGE'S PALACE - SAN MARCO BASILICA - RIALTO BRIDGE
AM
Head back to San Marco Square to the Doge's Palace - (open every day).
The Palace is one of the most magnificent in Italy and well deserving of at least an hour and a half. This Gothic-Renaissance fantasy of pink-and-white marble is the majestic expression of the prosperity and power attained by Venice during its most glorious period - it was the Venetian Republic's White House, Senate, Supreme Court, and prison rolled into one.
Since it is quite extensive, you might want to purchase a good guidebook to get the most out of it. Inside are sumptuous rooms, private apartments, dungeons and great paintings/works of art to admire; it has always been a focal point in the rich history of the city.
Next-door is the Basilica of San Marco, one of the richest and greatest Byzantine churches in the world. San Marco is famous for its 43,055 sq ft of stunning mosaics, for the Cappella della Madonna di Nicopeia (Chapel of the Madonna of Nicopeia), and for the extraordinary Pala d'Oro (Golden Altarpiece), a dazzling gilded silver screen encrusted with gems.
Across from the Basilica is the Correr Museum - also worth a stop. Your entry to the Doge Palace includes the entry to the Correr Museum, so if you have time during the day, stop over. Canova's neo-classical sculptures are on display, as well as many eclectic collections, furniture, elegant rooms, artifacts etc…
PM
Begin to discover the various quarters of the city. San Polo, Dorsoduro, La Guidecca, Rialto, San Marco. The best thing is to just get lost actually. You can walk everywhere in Venice, and where you cannot walk you go by water. While the city has hundreds of bridges, the Grand Canal can only be crossed on foot at three points: Ponte degli Scalzi, near the train station (Ferrovia); Ponte di Rialto, at the Rialto; and at Ponte dell'Accademia. As an alternative, take the traghetti, essentially gondolas that ferry across the canal. The vaporetti (water buses) that circulate through the city on set routes are best used to cover long distances.
Away from the crowds, strolling along narrow alleys you discover the real Venice, no tourists. Magically bright squares and gardens appear.
It is a relief to get away from the people and find out how intimate this city can be. Your camera will be busy clicking away as you cross little bridges; they look like picture postcard settings.
SAN POLO - Campo S. Rocco and Campo D. Frari - Campo San Polo. The Scuola di San Rocco houses some great works by Tintoretto - one of my favorite artists. (1500's)
GREAT PLACES TO DINE IN VENICE…
Alla Madonna Don't judge the place from the outside - the rooms are actually well kept and, by Venetian standards, rather elegant, with some decent artwork: Boiled granseola and seafood salads can be followed by a hearty fish soup with croutons, or deep-fried eel for the more adventurous. Ask hotel to reserve. Calle della Madonna, 594 San Polo, Phone: 041/522-384 AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Wed. and part of Aug.
Osteria al Bacco It's worth making the effort to track down this ancient osteria where you can mingle with the locals and find refuge from the crowds. For alfresco dining, the small but charming garden has a few tables. Fondamenta Capuzine, 3054 Cannaregio, Phone: 041/717-493. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon., Jan., and Aug.
Trattoria C'a d'Oro Just a small place serving authentic Venetian Food with a rough Venetian floor, old marble counter, wooden paneling, and long tables invite conviviality. Calle del Pistor, 3912 Cannaregio, Phone: 041/528-5324. No credit cards. Closed Thurs., Sun. morning, Aug., and 1st wk in Sept.
Al Graspo de Ua Opened in the 19th century as a small osteria, the "Bunch of Grapes" became the meeting point of artists and movie stars back in the dolce vita days. The wide menu offers fresh pasta tossed with fish, seasonal risotto, and meat and seafood. Calle dei Bombaseri, 5094 San Marco, Phone: 041/522-3647. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and several wks between July and Aug.
DAY 4 - RIALTO MARKET - ACCADEMIA - or - Ca' d'Oro PALACE or Ca' REZZONICO PALACE – PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION
AM
A stop at the Rialto market is a must. The freshest fish, vegetables and fruits are on view and worth a detour.
Then head for the Accademia and stop at the GALLERIE DELL'ACCADEMIA - Accademia Galleries - the finest painting collection in Venice. Hanging in this museum is unquestionably the most extraordinary masterpieces of Venetian art in the world, ranging from Gothic to 1800's. There is usually a line since they only allow a certain number of persons in at a time, so take some patience with you.
Once you cross the bridge (what a view!) just keep heading towards the right and wind around. Or alternatively head towards the CA’ D’ORO, known as the finest example of Gothic architecture. This exquisite palace was once literally a "Golden House," its marble traceries and ornaments embellished with pure gold. Each section has a charm all its own.
Ca' Rezzonico a truly unique Baroque mansion has some elegant rooms overlooking the Grand Canal and furniture collections. With its stucco work, colored marble fixtures, brocade tapestry, fine furniture, Murano glass chandeliers, and valuable frescoes, this Grand Canal palace shows how elegant the Venetian lifestyle was in spite of the declining times.
Many of these palaces still host some of Carnival's most elegant balls every February.
MUSIC CONCERT - there usually are concerts every evening featuring VIVALDI'S music or other similar in one of the many churches or palaces (La Pieta', the Scuola Grande di San Rocco and many more) Inquire for further information.
PM
After stopping at one of the Palaces along the Grand Canal you may want to head for: The "Lesser Known" Venice: CASTELLO. Behind the Doge's Palace, walking along the water lies a residential quarter that has not lost any authenticity after all these years. Families live here, there is a large green Park overlooking the lagoon and further inland are some truly charming sections with bridges lovely to walk in.
COLLEZIONE PEGGY GUGGENHEIM. Directly on the Grand Canal, the museum, displayed in the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, her residence for 30 years, are works representing the most important artistic movements from the early 20th century through the post-war period.
Extremely rich, provocative, and extravagant, Peggy Guggenheim (1898-1979) - wife of Max Ernst and niece of Solomon Guggenheim - was among the 20th century's greatest collectors of modern art. Calle San Cristoforo, 701 Dorsoduro.
For a special "splurge" dinner head for: HOTEL CIPRIANI - a private launch will take you across the lagoon to this island of peace and quiet and superb food and service. This is the top hotel in Venice and the garden restaurant quite memorable.
In white-peach season (July to early September), you must try the famous blossom-scented Bellini aperitif. The cuisine is rooted in Venetian tradition, prepared and presented with a star chef's hand and matched with a superb wine list. An old standard is the green tagliolini (thin fettuccine) gratin with ham and a light white sauce.
Reservations essential. Fondamenta San Giovanni 10, Giudecca, Phone: 041/520-7744 AE, DC, MC, V.
OTHER OPTIONS EXPLORE THE LAGOON
Take the traghetto or a boat tour to the charming island of MURANO, which as Venice is made up of a number of smaller islands linked by bridges. It is known for its glassworks, which moved here from Venice in the 13th century because they were a fire hazard. Many of these line the Fondamenta dei Vetrai, the canal-side walkway leading away from the Colonna landing stage, and can be visited. The Museo Vetrario (Glass Museum) details the history of Murano's glassworks; its displays range from priceless antiques to only slightly less-expensive modern pieces.
BURANO. Dotting this fishing village on an island in the lagoon are houses painted in cheerful colors and a raked bell tower in the main square, Piazza Galuppi, about 100 yards from the landing stage. Lace is to Burano what glass is to Murano, but be prepared to pay a lot - $1,000 to $2,000 for a 10" doily - for the real thing. Stalls line the way from the landing stage to Piazza Galuppi. The Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum) is the best place to learn the intricacies of Burano's lace-making traditions and the nature of the skills needed to make the more expensive lace.
MORE RESTAURANTS SUGGESTIONS:
Al Conte Pescaor Delicious risotto and hot second courses. You can eat at the bar. 597 B, Piscina San Zulian, off Marzaria San Zulian, Tel. 041.522.1483 Closed Sun. and Mon. aftnoon.
Taverna San Tomaso on Dorsoduro. Good prices (near the Accademia). Fondamenta Priuli, Dorsoduro 1016. Tel. 5203703 Cl. Mondays
Antica Besseta Even if this old trattoria is a bit off the beaten track, don't go without booking first, because there are only a few tables and the place is well known. Try the Risi e bisi (savory rice and peas) or fettuccine verdi agli spinaci con peperoni e basilico and then, of course, fish.1395, Salizada Zusto, between San Simeon Grando and San Giacomo dall'Orio, Tel. 041.721.687 closed Tue. and Wedn.
Harry's Bar More than just a tiny restaurant, this place is a landmark. Founder Giuseppe Cipriani, who ran it in the days when Hemingway nominated it as his favorite restaurants, has become more famous than any Venetian since the thirties. 1323, Calle Vallaresso, Tel. 041.528.5331 Closed Mon.
Linea d’Ombra Reserve a table outside overlooking the Guidecca. Zattere ai Saloni, Dorsoduro 19. Tel. 520 47 20. Medium prices.
PM
Full day boat tour of the Brenta Canal and Venetial Villas
Enjoy the 8 ½ hours guided tour on board the Burchiello launch to discover magnificent Palladian 17th and 18th century Villas on the Brenta River and canals between the Venetian lagoon and Padua, lunch included.
In a time span from 15th to 18th cent. Venetian nobles were used to build thousands of countryside luxury villas. They were both meant to be masters’ country houses and estate centers. Parks and gardens with plays of water particularly suit the elegant and refined social life. Many of these scenographic villas were planned by famous architects, as Palladio and Scamozzi, and fresco-painted by artists such as Veronese and Tiepolo.
Water plays an important role in the scenographic asset of the building. The most outstanding villas lie along the Brenta River, which was canalized in the 16th cent. and flows for a total of 36 Km. (22 miles), and their main façade face directly the water. Today some villas open their doors to the public: the Villa Foscari at Malcontenta, the Villa Widman-Foscari at Mira, the Villa Pisani at Stra.
DOLOMITES
CAR RENTAL TO – SELVA di VAL GARDENA
DAY 5 - Pick up a CAR RENTAL in VENICE and then head via the autostrada towards SELVA. Drive is about 4 hours.
DAY 6, 7, 8
ORTISEI (probably stay in Ortisei or Selva)
Is part of the VAL GARDENA valley and the jewel of this region. There are literally hundreds of hiking trails and excellent facilities such as swimming pools, health spas, tennis courts and other sports activities including horsebackriding. The valley is surrounded by incredible views regardless of where you are positioned. The locals are famous for their wood-carving art. Visit the local artifacts at the Museo della Val Gardena at Cesa di Ladinis – Via Rezia 83, Ortisei.
ADLER STUBEN – is in one of the finest hotels in the area. This traditional stube prepares a local cuisine keeping close to the specialties and is very well prepared. Prices aer higher than normal ($40) but definitely worth a splurge. The desserts are excellent. Via Rezia 7. Tel. 0471/796203
The SELLA Mountain Range is the heart of the Dolomites. Picturesque towns such as Canazei, Ortisei and Selva overlook the Sasso Lungo promontory which is 10,000 feet above sea level.
CANAZEI – is in the Fassa Valley and in the summertown this is a haven with mountain trails. COL RODELLA is an excursion you must take from Campitello di Fassa by cable car which rises 3,000 feet up the mountain range to view the incredible panorama.
LA MONTANARA – excellent prices and cuisine in this rustic place with wooden tables. Must reserve. Via Dolomiti 147. Tel. 0462/601352. Open also from 4:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. for snacks and wine tastings. The menu is fixed based on the chef’s creativity.
CORTINA D’AMPEZZO – is one of the most exclusive resorts in N. Italy for skiing and summer relaxation. But it has not lost its beauty indeed its name is “the pearl of the Dolomites”. It is located in the middle of a meadow 4,000 feet above sea level. The town is on the slopes of a stram and there is a huge public park on one end. Luxury villas and chalets are dotted all over the hills. The center is a charming Swiss type chalet village. Very Tyrolean in fact.
WHERE TO DINE IN CORTINA:
FANES: home cooking in typical surroundings with game a specialty. Hotel Fanes, via Roma, 136.
POSSIBLE SIDE TRIP TO: TRENTO
This lovely town still retains the architectural charm and ancient traditions. You may reach it via train.
Like the most Italians Towms Trento has a square Piazza del Duomo with a beautiful baroque fountain of Neptune. Before entering to the Duomo you should pause to see the veiw of the mountaintops, then step inside the cathedral where you will find the Baldacchino which is a copy of the Bernini’s Masterpiece in St. Peters.
Palazzo Pretorio was built in the 13th Century as the residence of the prince-bishop.
Every Saturday there are guided tours in the center where is possible to visit also old cellars.
Via Belenzani is famous for its Renaissance palazzi with frescoed facades. Don’t miss though the CASTELLO del BUONCONSIGLIO – the Castle of Good Counsel at the end of Via Manci – a huge contruction and stronghold with medieval fortifications. (open Tuesdays through Sundays). Above all Trento is a lovely town to meander in and do some great wine tasting. Here are a few places.
ROMA: near the Duomo and Castle and very busy at lunch. Vi San Simonino 6, 0461/984150. Try the local Spezzatino a special beef stew made here. Cl Sun. and August.
LE DUE SPADE: a nice, cozy location near the Duomo with wood panelling and lovely antique stove. Must reserve. Tel. 0461/234343. Cl. Sun and Mon lunch. Via Don Rizzi 11
DAY 9 – LATER ON IN THE DAY HEAD BACK TO VENICE
Drop off the car and head back to Venice.
DAY 10 – FLY HOME
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