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Day 1 – EN ROUTE
Depart for your overseas flight to Florence or Rome. You will arrive on the next morning
Day 2 - ARRIVE IN FLORENCE or ROME- PERUGIA
Head to Umbria with the train or by car. You can take the train to Perugia or just rent a car from Florence and take the highway A1 in direction Rome and exit at Sinalunga. From there Perugia will be indicated so you cannot miss it. The drive takes about 1 and half hour. We recommend renting a car to really enjoy the countryside. Driving in Umbria is easy and a real pleasure!
Day 3 – PERUGIA
Arrive in Perugia and check in your hotel, which will be located in the center of the town. There are beautiful castle hotels located just outside the town, in the case you prefer to stay in a more intimate location.
Make Perugia to your base for the next days and then drive around by car…this is the best way to discover Umbria and distances are really short between towns(maximum of 1 hour).
PERUGIA lies in a wonderful position at 493 m. above sea level dominating the Tiber Valley on a range of hills in the heart of Umbria, of which it is the administrative centre.
The region's capital is the lively home of the UNIVERSITA’ DEGLI STRANIERI (University for Foreigners), a place where you'll hear music late into the night and almost any language you can name on the streets.
The great "Guelf strong-hold" rises up in the region's heart, with its 5 historical quarters closed-in by its Etruscan town walls. These enormous bastions formed by cyclopic square masses, were constructed 22 centuries ago and are still visible for long stretches.
When the city of Rome was little more that an encampment of huts, one could already enter the Etruscan Perugia using one of 7 portals, among which one was particularly mighty, the Porta Pulchra or of Augustus, dating back to Etruscan times.
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Take a walk in the center of Perugia starting with CORSO VANNUCCI (named after the local painter Pietro Vannucci, best known as the Perugino), one of the main shopping streets.
At the end of it you will find yourself in one of Italy's most important squares, PIAZZA GRANDE where you'll see the Prior’s Palace, the Cathedral and the 13th century fountain Fontana Maggiore at the center, the main monuments of Perugia. These monuments render the Piazza Grande of Perugia (now called Piazza IV Novembre) a superb architectural complex.
The PRIOR’S PALACE, a great expression of the city's municipal spirit, was built between the 13th and the 15th centuries. Its austere mass, completely closed in a vest of square stone and only slightly embellished by two rows of beautiful Gothic windows with three lights, which run along its longer side, stands on the square like an enormous bastion.
Visit the NATIONAL GALLERY OF UMBRIA, which contains Umbria's most important collection of paintings. In its many rooms rare works of art and paintings by Perugino, the artist who with his purity of design and sensitivity to the use of colour has given us the most happy expression of the grace and the sweetness of Umbria.
The most attractive feature of Perugia's Piazza Grande, which is now called Piazza IV Novembre, is the fountain FONTANA MAGGIORE.
This fountain is one of the most beautiful in Italy because of the elegance of its lines, the harmony of its form and the value of its decorations consisting of 50 bas-reliefs and 24 statues by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano. It has recently undergone restoration, which has given it its former splendour.
At the other extreme end of Corso Vannucci you'll find famous panoramic gardens built on the foundations of the ROCCA PAOLINA, a stronghold built by Pope Paul III in 1540. These foundations contain, similar to under an enormous bell, an entire quarter of the old Perugia: a dead city, a sort of Medieval Pompeii which has been brought to light again and which is fascinating to visit.
Entering the city via Porta San Pietro, whose exterior was remodelled by Agostino di Duccio in 1475, you'll arrive at the basilica of St. Dominic on the right-hand side; the very important National Archaeological Museum of Umbria is to be found in the adjacent cloisters and convent.
Continuing along, you'll reach the Piazza del Sopramuro, where the 15th century Palace of the Old University and the adjacent Palace of the People's Captain look down on the square.
Due to the fact that Perugia is located up on a hill, the city administration has decided to build lifts and stairways in order to facilitate the access to the city to all people who might have some problems in walking (or better hiking ) up and down the quite steep and narrow streets, both the most ancient and the most recent. The way Via delle Prome is a typical example.
Leaving from the Augustus Arc, this way lead to the upper point of Perugia, where used to be the castle of Porta Sole, erected in the XIV century by the dal Gattapone, and destroyed later for willing of the whole town people.
SPECIAL EVENTS IN PERUGIA
Perugia is also worldwide known by music lovers because of its world famous INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL that started in 1973, hosting stars such as Sting and Eric Clapton and which takes place every year in July.
The festival lasts 10 hectic days with concerts taking place in various venues in Perugia both outdoors and in. Perugia becomes incredibly busy during this time with crowds thronging the city centre. This can be fun but can also mean problems booking a hotel room or getting a table at a restaurant - you have been warned.
Tickets for the major events go very quickly, check out the Umbria Jazz web site for up to the minute news and availability. There is also a part of Umbria Jazz that takes place in Cortona 24th-25th July even though it's in Toscana.
Where to eat in PERUGIA…
LOCANDA DEI PRIORI (Via Cumana, 4 Tel. 075 5178273). Try the home made pasta recipes and the great fish dishes. Good wine list.
GIO’ ARTE E VINI (Via Ruggero d’Andreotto, 19 Tel. 075 5731100). The wine list has more than prestigious wines. Try the umbricelli al rancetto (special Umbrian pasta dish), the trecciole d’agnello (with lamb meat).
IL GUFO (Via della Viola 18 Tel. 075 5734126). Very famous for its pasta dishes such as ravioli, maccheroni dishes and excellent desserts.
DAY 4 – NORTHERN UMBRIA
In the morning drive north of Perugia to explore the Tiber and the Eugubine Valleys…
We suggest to drive to Citta’ di Castello and then drive back southwards stopping at interesting towns as Gubbio, Umbertide and more…
This part of Umbria, the extreme northern part, has felt more than any other area the influence of neighbouring regions: the Marche and Tuscany. It should be enough for you to choose the higher Tiber valley only for its natural beauty, but, as if this should not suffice, every town in the area can boast a rich artistic and cultural heritage. Testifying to the importance, which this area has had during the pre-Roman era and afterwards, you'll find remains of the Etruscan and Roman eras, medieval buildings and works of art, beautifully preserved and a collection of the works of one of the most important masters of modern art:
The most important towns in this area are CITTA’ DI CASTELLO and UMBERTIDE, both of which are situated along the Tiber valley: These towns are the seat of national shows and events including music, folklore and handicrafts. Country fairs dating back to farmers' origins, feasts of Patron Saints and storical pageants are present in the calendar of every small town such as Citerna, Monte S. Maria Tiberina, Pietralunga and Montone.
CITTA DI CASTELLO
For the most part still surrounded by town walls dating back to the 16th century, the town of Citta’ di Castello spreads out along the Tiber valley, on the spot where the Romans had founded the township of Tifernum Tiberinum.
Buildings which used to be the seat of administrative structures such as the Palace of the Podestà, with its baroque facade dating back to 1686, and the Town Hall, built in the Gothic style with an elegant portal and windows with two lights, testify to the ancient history of this Umbrian town. Traces of Gothic art are still to be found of the left-hand side of the Cathedral, which, having been constructed during the 11th century on the site of a Roman temple, was already radically modified in the middle of the 14th century.
The churches of S. DOMENICO (1424), with its incomplete facade and ogival portal on the left-hand side, of S. MARIA MAGGIORE, dating back to the Gothic era but adorned by a Renaissance facade, and finally that of St.Francis with its poligonal apses (1273), remodelled in the first years of the 18th century, complete the panorama of the town's religious buildings. The Municipal Pinacoteque contains works of art by Raffaello, Signorelli and Domenico Ghirlandaio, apart from others by Umbrian, Tuscan and Marche schools.
NICE RESTAURANTS IN CITTA’ di CASTELLO…
IL BERSAGLIO: Via V.E. Orlando 14 Tel. 075 8555534 (Cl. on Wed.) Family run. Great truffle dishes such as the gnocchetti gratinati al tartufo…
ENOTECA ALTOTIBERINA: Piazza Gabriotti Tel. 075 8553089 (Cl. on Tue.) Typical Umbrian dishes…try the crostoni di porcini…
RAFFAELLO: Via Borgo Farinario 28 Tel. 075 8521070. More elegant atmosphere…Fish and pasta dishes are strongly suggested.
UMBERTIDE
This small town, which, in the area, is second in importance only to Città di Castello, was founded at around the 10th century according to the wishes of Uberto, son of the King of Italy, and took the name of "Fracta filiorum Uberti". Its fate during the Middle Ages followed sometimes that of Perugia, in other times that of the Church, making it subject to defeats and devastations.
The buildings of major artistic value are, apart from the CASTLE, where nowadays exhibitions of modern art are held, the churches of St. Mary della Reggia and of the Holy Cross. The first is built in an octagonal form surmounted by a cupola dating back to the 16th century, the second, dating back to 1651, contains, among other minor works of art, an extraordinary painting by Signorelli: the "Deposition from the Cross
Close by the Church of the Holy Cross, you'll find the churches of St. Francis (14th century) with its facade in conci and its portal with a three-lobed arch and the church of St. Bernardino (16th century). At about 5 km. to the North-East one of the best-preserved defensive structures of the whole Tiber valley is to be found: the CASTLE OF CIVITELLA RANIERI This building, constructed between the 15th and the 16th centuries, with its four towers, two square and two round, still dominates all of the surrounding plain, and offers a marvellous look-out point.
PIETRALUNGA
This town, which is situated in a controlling position in the Carpinella valley, was the seat of a Roman settlement because of its strategic placement. Its present aspect surrounded by town walls and with its well-preserved stronghold, is however, the result of urban development during the Middle Ages.
The town's most important building is without doubt the Parrochial church, which was subjected to modification during the course of the last century and therefore has its new entrance in the apsis region. Near the town's center, where, according to history, St. Crescenziano was killed, the church of Pieve de' Saddi is situated which in its interior contains frescoes dating back to the 15th century and a crypt which was restored during the 16th century
GUBBIO
The Eugubine region is located in the northeastern part of Umbria, between the Appenninno mountain complex, the Tevere valley and the Umbra valley. This region has an old history and it is rich of naturalistics and artistics wealths. The Eugubino is a region studded with monasteries, abbeys and small centers with strange names.
GUBBIO laying on the slopes of Monte Ingino, is one of the most ancient towns of Umbria, extremely well preserved during centuries and rich of monuments testifying its glorious past during the Middle Ages. Following the Flaminia way one can get to the minor but still charming villages, which are worth a visit.
Gubbio is one of three Italian cities known for ceramics an art that was perfected during the 1400's and there are many botteghe displaying colorful plates and vases.
Park your car at one of the entrance of the old city (which is closed to the traffic) and start your walking tour through Gubbio heading to the Citta’ Alta, the upper part of the city, with its Gothic PALAZZO DEI CONSOLI (CONSULS PALACE), PALAZZO DEI PRETORI and PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA offering a breathtaking view of the valley.
Two important witnesses of the historical past are the TAVOLE EUGUBINE, one of most important documents referring to the ancient people living in Middle Italy, called Italici, and THE ROMAN THEATRE just outside the walls of the town.
Dominated from the top by the Basilica on which the rests of S. UBALDO are buried, Gubbio keeps architectonic masterpieces testifying the beauty and the importance of what used to be during the Middle Ages, a real town-state.
THE CONSULS PALACE
The imposing complex of public buildings and the square, which links them, were constructed during the XIV century.
It is an architectural-urban work of worldwide importance; the deliberations of 1321 and 1322 commanded that the buildings had to be erected in a place touching all the different quarters of the town. For these reasons, the public buildings were realized so as to meet all the areas of town in a dedalus of magnificent beauty.
To fulfill the task, the land had to be deeply modified, and huge vaults were constructed in order to support this hanging square (Piazza Pensile), which is supposed to be the biggest hanging square in the world.
The marvellous door of the Consuls Palace has to be attributed to Angelo da Orvieto, a very famour Italian artist.
To remind are the Palaces Beni, del Bargello with the famous fountain, of People Captain in typical renaissance style, and the DUKES PALACE by Francesco Giorgio Martini which testify the importance of the period on which the Montefeltro's family had the administration of the town.
THE DUKES PALACE
The palace was built after 1470 following the arrival of Federico da Montefeltro and is the expression of a lifestyle inspired from the humanistic civilization.
L.Laurana, worked on it under the power of Federico between 1467 and 1472. Therefore, the initials FD (Federicus Dux), which can be read in several parts of the building, date after the 1474, when Montefeltro was named duke, and this would confirm that the palace was built when the architect was already working at the Naples Court.
Very interesting the inner yard hall which remind a bit, although in smaller scale, the palaces and yards of Urbino; without any doubt, once finished, the palace was marvellous also in the ornaments. The study of the duke, today at the Metropilitan Museum of New York, was of wood panels well inlaid and covered the walls up to a hight of m. 2,68; today it is possible to admire the beautiful inlays of the door, the square-cell ceiling, the marble fireplace and the tiled roof.
The palace today is a museum and exhibition area and belongs to the italian agency for architectural and archeological patrimony.
Today both buildings are owned by the Commune. The Consuls Palace hosts the ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM at which inside the EUGUBINE TABELS are stored.
THE ROMAN THEATRE
The THEATRE OF IGUVIUM is thought to have been built in the 1c BC, by using square blocks of limestone from the local area. We know it was substantially improved sometime in the first quarter of the 1c AD, because in the city's Museo Civico we have the proud inscription of the man who restored it, the quattuorvir Gnaeus Satrius Rufus. Unfortunately, the need for stone to build the splendours of medieval Gubbio, undid the monument to its present fragmentary condition. The walls' covering is ashlar. The tiers, having a diametr of 70 metersi, are divided by short stairs in four parts.
In summertime (July/August) it becomes a suggestive scenario for concerts and theatre performances.
Further interesting sights in Gubbio are the Cathedral (XII century), Santa Maria Nuova (inside which one can admire the Madonna del Belvedere painted by Ottaviano Nelli on 1413), Church and Convent of S.Agostino (XIII century) with inside frescoes of Nelli, Church and Convent of S. Francesco (XIII century), S. Giovanni (XII century) characterised by the facade and bell tower in Romanic style, San Pietro enlarged in 1505 and San Domenico enlarged in the XIV century.
SPECIAL EVENTS IN GUBBIO…
Gubbio's CORSA DEI CERI (The race of the candles) – is without doubt one of the most famous festival in the world: it is the most sensational, exciting and crazy race you have ever watched!
It is celebrated on the 15 May, St. Ubaldo's eve, and this has happened for centuries: the origins of the festival of the Candles date probably to the half of the 12th century, when the Commune, after an important victory in a war against some enemy cities, decided to celebrate the event and express gratitude to the then bishop of Gubbio Ubaldo by an annual festival
The festival ceremonial is complex and has remained unaltered for centuries.
The "CERI" are 3 massive wooden candles weighing, four hundred kilos each and three metres high, surmounted by the statues of St. Ubaldo, St. Giorgio and St. Antonio carried on their shoulders by young people up the steep slope up Mount Igino where stands the Basilica of St. Ubaldo, the patron saint of Gubbio and finishing up in Piazza della Signoria. On the stroke of midday the candles are raised, water is poured on them from a jug and the jug then broken. There is always a rush to find bits of the jug as they supposedly bring good luck.
The race, however, is more than a one-day wonder. The Ceri - which are stored in the Basilica during the rest of the year - are carried through the streets of the town on May 1st, as those of you who will be able to experience their May Day holiday in Gubbio will undoubtedly enjoy it!
So don't miss your chance to take part in one of Italy's liveliest festivals - a spectacular mix of the sacred and profane where human nature is the true winner, year after year.
PALIO DELLA BALESTRA (Racing of the Crossbow) on the last Sunday of May
This contest of arms dating back to the XII century, is still celebrated between blasts of bugles and fluttering of flags in the evocative square Piazza Grande, beautiful with its palaces of the XIV century and crowded of people which clap the hands to every shot of crossbow.
Today the ritual Middle Age tournament between the old Biturgio (the city of Sansepolcro) and Gubbio is renewed periodically when, at the end of the bloomed May, the crossbowmen of Biturgo, accept the challenge of Gubbio and cross the doors of the city in order to compete and win.
RESTAURANTS IN GUBBIO…
TAVERNA DEL LUPO: Via Baldassini Ubaldo 60 Tel. 075 9274368. White and black truffles are here the most important ingredients here…the most famous in Gubbio. Also try the cookies with Vin Santo (Holy wine…very sweet)
FABIANI Piazza 40 Martiri 26 Tel. 075 9274639
LA FORNACE DI MASTRO GIORGIO: Via Mastro Giorgio 2 Tel. 075 9221836
DAY 5– LAGO TRASIMENO
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Drive from Perugia for a good half an hour southwest taking the Speedway SS75b.
This region can offer, differently from the surrounding zones, all the environmental wonders and the tourist attractions that only a lake of remarkable size, such as the Trasimeno can guarantee. It is not by chance that the most important centers of this region, such as Castiglione del Lago , Tuoro sul Trasimeno , Passignano sul Trasimeno, and Magione rise on its rivers and also the more distant villages, such as Piegaro, Paciano or Panicale, orbit around to this important pole of economic and tourist attraction. Perhaps only Città della Pieve for the unquestionable artistic treasures, escapes this law, according to which, the interest of the traveller focuses on the waters of the greatest lake of the center of Italy .
CASTIGLIONE SUL LAGO
The town has been constructed on a limestone cliff cape on the east side of the Trasimeno Lake. Etrurians were probably the first to occupy this area, as confirmed by the findings of tombs in the area. After the Roman occupation, the village belonged respectively to the marquis of Tuscany, to the abbey of S.Germano from Campoleone, to Perugia, to the Duke Della Corgna until 1643, again to the Grand duke of Tuscany and, in the XVIII century to the Papal State.
Take a walk along the lakeshore and inside the urban center with its the middle age town walls, the Town hall and the palace of Della Corgna Dukes, which are still well preserved.
The latter, probably a remake of a pre-existing structure realized by the Vignola or the Alessi, has frescoes of mythological topic painted by Giovanni Antonio Pandolfi and Salvio Salvini. The most fascinating building of the entire village is without any doubt the castle, which, with its four towers, represents one of the most remarkable examples of military art in Umbria.
SPECIAL EVENT in April 11th - Feast of the Tulip: Parade of cars decored with tulips. Historical parade and typical products.
PASSIGNANO SUL TRASIMENO
The most ancient nucleus of the village is still today encircled by the middle age walls which testify the development the center underwent during the Roman Empire, evolving from a small agricultural village to a castle, which, after the Lordship of Uguccione II in the 917, was constantly aimed at by Arezzo, Perugia and Florence. Not very many historical buildings are left in the town, due to the destructions caused by the II the world war strafings. All that remains is in fact the CHURCH OF SAN ROCCO ( XV century) and the one of S. Bernardino, erected only a few years later.
From Passignano, the ISOLA MAGGIORE (Greater Island), on Trasimeno Lake, is reached in few minutes of boat. There one can visit the Romanesque church of S. Salvatore of the XII century, that of S.Michele Archangel of the XIV century and the Villa Isabella of Marquises Guglielmi. On the land, instead, approximately ten kilometers away from Passignano, the small village of Castel Rigone rises, where one of the most elegant renaissance buildings of the whole Umbria was erected: the CHURCH OF THE MADONNA DEI MIRACOLI.
CITTA DELLA PIEVE
It is supposed that already Etrurians and Romans had established at the same place where today Città della Pieve rises. This characteristic village was touched by the events of the medieval history, and indeed, a number of masters had the control of the town until when Clement VII placed it under the direct control of the Church. At the center of the village, still today encircled to a good extension by the MEDIEVAL WALLS of 1300, having such a medieval style that here the narrowest street of Italy can be found (via Baciadonne), the DOME dedicated to the SS. Gervasio and and Protasio rises; its original structure has to be dated around the XII century but modifications done during centuries XVI and XVII have modified the original shapes and styles. However, the more ancient construction still can be noticed by the decorations of the lower part of the facade, the apse and the gothic Romanesque bell tower
PANICALE
As it is the case for most of the villages of the region, Panicale still maintains a medieval aspect due typically to the remains of the old town-walls and the fortified doors. Although the church of the Madonna of the Slabs and that one of S.Augustin are by far remarkable buildings, the main attraction of the village has to be found in the magnificent views one can benefit on the Trasimeno Lake and the valley of the Nestore torrent.
DAY 6 – ASSISI, SPELLO
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Check out from your hotel in Perugia and head to Assisi….at the end of the day you will arrive in Spoleto, your next base …
ASSISI stretches out on the slopes of the Monte Subasio, above the plain where the Topino and Chiascio rivers flow. Although it can boast Roman origins, its present-day appearance, because of the buildings and also the urban structure, is surely due to the city's development during the Middle Ages. Assisi's oldest nucleus, which is protected by a defensive apparatus made up of eight fortified entrance portals and a long belt of town walls, which are still perfectly preserved, is topped by two castles on peak of the mountain: the ROCCA MAGGIORE, reconstructed by the Cardinal Albornoz in 1367 and the ROCCA MINORE.
Thanks to SAN FRANCESCO, Italy's most famous and loved saint and also founder of the Franciscan order, ASSISI is Umbria's best-known town, and as a result it is crammed with people for ten months of the year. However you will feel something special in the air during your staying, a sort of mystical atmosphere that will let you want to come back in the future...
The origin of Assisi, as for many other cities in Umbria is uncertain. It was inhabited by the Umbri, a local population settled in middle Italy. Successively the Etruscans and Romans took possession of the territory as testified by the many the numerous vestiges of the roman municipium called Asisium. Nowadays you can still visit the well-preserved facade of the TEMPLE OF MINERVA, the remains of the FORUM, the amphitheatre and the ROMAN WALLS.
Around 1180 San Francesco was born, the most famous of the sons of Assisi. During a war between Assisi and Perugia, he was held prisoner for several months. Dissatisfied with his riche and noble life, he turned to prayer and service to the poor, and in 1206 he publicly refused his father's wealth. Pope Innocent III approved his way of life, gave him and his disciples permission to preach on moral topics, and had Francis ordained a deacon. With the collaboration of Saint Clare of Assisi (1194-8/11/1253), Francis founded (1212) a branch of his order for women, called the Poor Clares. Later, he established (1221) another branch for laymen and women, called the Third Order. He died on October 3, 1226 and was canonized in 1228 by Pope Gregorio IX.
The BASILICA OF SAN FRANCESCO (daily 7am–7pm), at the end of Via San Francesco, is justly famed as Umbria's single greatest glory, and one of the most overwhelming collections of art outside a gallery anywhere in the world. Begun in 1228, two years after the saint's death, it was financed by donations that flooded in from all over Europe. The sombre LOWER CHURCH is the earlier of the two churches that make up the basilica, its complicated floor plan and claustrophobic vaults intended to create a mood of meditative introspection – an effect added to by brown-robed monks, strict rules on silence and no photography. Francis lies under the floor in a crypt only brought to light in 1818. Frescoes cover almost every available space, and span a century of continuous artistic development, from the anonymous early works above the altar, through Cimabue's (one of the most famous Italian painters) over-restored Madonna, Child and Angels with St Francis in the right transept, to work by the Sienese School painters, Simone Martini and Pietro Lorenzetti. The UPPER CHURCH, built to a light and airy Gothic plan, is richly decorated, too, with Giotto's dazzling frescoes on the life of St Francis. The treasury contains a rich collection of paintings, reliquaries and religious clutter.
Assisi's small centre is very cute, you can visit the Museo Civico in the central Piazza del Comune housed in the crypt of the now defunct church of San Nicolo, whose collection includes Etruscan fragments and the so-called Tempio di Minerva, six columns and a pediment from a Roman temple of the first century. Opening hours: Tues–Sun 10am–1pm & 3–7pm, entrance fee $ 2).
On the Town Square situated on the ancient Forum, you will find the Priors' Palace (1337), the Palace of the People's Captain (12th century) and the TEMPLE OF MINERVA, built during the Augustean period with pronaos, columns and Corinthian capitals which are still intact. Nearby, places which are connected with the life of St. Francis can be visited, such as the Hermitage of the Prisons immersed in a thick wood of oaks and ilex on the slopes of the Subasio Mountain, and the CONVENT OF SAN DAMIAN (Not to be missed!!), which was built up around the oratory were, according to tradition, the Cross spoke to the Saint. Finally, in the plain, the impressive BASILICA OF S. MARI OF THE ANGELS was built according to the plans of Alessi between 1569 and 1679 to protect the Porziuncola Chapel, which was the first simple meeting-place of the Franciscan brotherhood.
Take Via di San Rufino and head to the thirteenth-century DUOMO that still has the font used to baptize St Francis and St Clare, and close by is the BASILICA DI SAN CHIARA, burial place of St Francis's devoted early companion. Consecrated in 1265, the church is a virtual facsimile of the basilica up the road, and is home to the macabre blackened body of Clare herself and a Byzantine crucifix famous for having bowed to Francis and commanded him to embark on his sacred mission.
FORO ROMANO
Together with the Temple of Minerva, Assisi conserves important testimonies or the Roman Era. About 5 meters under the present ground level of the Piazza del Comune there is an area of about 1500 square meters, which came to light during excavations, which began in the 19th century. Recent reorganisation enables visitors to take a striking "archaeological walk" through it.
All those who have the good luck of visiting this splendid town have to agree with who says that the beauty of Assisi goes beyond a short, and necessarily incomplete list of works of art more or less extraordinary, but is however to be found in the atmosphere of places which the story and the faith of the Saint have rendered unique all over the world
NOT TO MISS IF YOU ARE TRAVELLING IN MAY… At the beginning of May in Assisi takes place the event CALENDIMAGGIO, a spectacular event that commemorates the Medieval and Renaissance customs and life with corteges, theatre representations musical and vocal contests, mainly choirs, dances, archers’, crossbowmen and flag wavers’ exhibitions in a challenge between the quarters of Parte de Sopra and Parte de Sotto.
EATING OUT IN ASSISI…
S. FRANCESCO: Via S. Francesco 52 - 06081 - Assisi - Italia - Tel. (+39) 075 815201
LA FORTEZZA: Via della Fortezza 2 - 06081 - Assisi - Italia - Tel. (+39) 075 812418
BUCA DI S. FRANCESCO: Via Brizi 1 - 06081 - Assisi - Italia - Tel. (+39) 075 812204
VILLA CHERUBINO: Via Patrono D’Italia Santa Maria degli Angeli 32 - 06088 - Assisi - Italia - Tel. (+39) 075 8040805
SPELLO
SPELLO rises up between Assisi and Foligno, situated on a spur of the Subasio Mountain above a fertile and well-irrigated plain. Among the neighbouring cities, this is surely the one which preserves the major number of monuments testifying to the Roman era; for example, the town walls, which later became the foundations for the medieval walls, the ruins of the theatre and the amphitheater, the thermal baths and the splendid town portals Porta Consolare, Porta Urbica and Porta Venere dating back to the Augustean era.
In ascent, you'll arrive at the Church of St. Mary Maggiore built between the 11th and 12th centuries, which, even if it can boast a beautiful facade reconstructed with antique materials in 1644 at the same time as other architectonic modifications were undertaken, guards its most precious treasure inside. In fact, the marvellous Baglioni Chapel is to be found on the left-hand side of the nave, with its paintings by Pinturicchio showing the "Annunciation", the "Nativity" scene and the "Dispute at the Temple", among other frescoes by the same painter which are to be found the chapels under the cross vaults and paintings by Perugino on the pilasters of the entrance to the presbytery.
Close by, it is possible to visit the church of St. Andrew (13th century), which contains the painting of the "Madonna and the Saints" by Pinturicchio. Don't forget to take a look at the Town Hall in Piazza della Repubblica with its beautiful ogival portico, and the church of St. Laurence with the remains of the older building dating back to the 12th century. Looking out from the ruins of the Castle (14th century), which is situated on top of the hill, one dominates the Valley of the Topino river and all of the surrounding hillside. Just outside of the inhabited area you'll find the Romanic church of St. Claudius and the "Chiesa Tonda" which was built during the Renaissance period in the form of a Greek cross with an octagonal cupola
UNIQUE EVENT IN SPELLO!!
Each June the village of Spello, just around the hill from Assisi, celebrates its annual INFIORATE, or dried flower festival. Here is what happens: the night before the Infiorate the men and women of the town, having divided into groups, begin tracing chalk outlines (planned months in advance) on the pavement of the piazza and surrounding streets. Meanwhile children and old widows in black sit on the sidelines in wooden chairs, separating by color dried and fresh petals: fiori del melograno (pomegranate flowers), garofolini (sweet william), ginestrella (greenweed), tagete (marigold), cedar of Lebanon, rose, fiordaliso (cornflower). Boxes and boxes of color, deep golds like curry powder, royal blues, hot pepper reds, that as dusk approaches the Spellini begin, very carefully, to scatter inside the traced outlines. (The color scheme, like everything else, has been long foretold.) Until dawn Spello is an enormous coloring book in which nature provides the crayons. (Strict rules prohibit dyeing or in any other way artificially enhancing the petals.)
The festival of flowers is renowned, enticing fascinated visitors from Italy and abroad to come to see the breathtaking colours and fragrant smells that have taken months to prepare.
FOLIGNO
FOLIGNO is one of the very few Umbrian cities built in the plain. It rises up on the banks of Topino river where the river erupts into the valley in an area where extensive drainage of the large swamplands took place, first during Roman times, then during the 15th and 16th centuries, and finally in the 19th century.
Very probably, the most significant part of one's stay at Foligno is a visit to the PIAZZA DELLA REPUBBLICA and the adjoining PIAZZA DEL DUOMO. The former, in its present-day appearance, with its elongated shape and the junction of four streets at the corners was planned according to the lay-out popular in the 12th and the 13th centuries for many Umbrian town squares. The Cathedral and the Town Hall, erected between 1262 and 1265, the Pretorio Palace, the Orfini Palace (1515) and the Trinci Palace, which preserves traces of the original beautiful decorations and some rooms with valuable frescoes, look down on the square.
The CATHEDRAL, built in the Romanic style during the 12th century, is the city's most important artistic monument; its main facade boasts multiple arches and a small loggia flanked by windows with two lights, while on the larger side which faces the Square you'll find rich decorative elements and evangelistic symbols in abundance.
In the inside, only the crypt remains of the ancient church, while the three naves, after having undergone extensive modifications already during the 15th and 16th centuries have assumed their present-day appearance according to the plans of Vanvitelli and the intervention of Giuseppe Piermarini.
Among the most important works of art in the Cathedral we would like to point out the Chapel of the Sacrament by Antonio of Sangallo the Younger (16th century).
You should not leave Foligno without having visited the Romanic Church of St. Mary Infraportas and the Abbey of Sassovivo, situated at only 6 km's distance from the city center. The former is distinguished, other than by the frescoes dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries, by its beautiful bell-tower and by its 11th century portico.
FURTHER SUGGESTIONS…
MONTEFALCO
This town, which is placed in a dominating position looking down on the valleys of the Topino and the Clitunno rivers, offers the viewer of a sweeping panorama of the Umbrian countryside.
The buildings inside the ancient town walls which are definitely worth visiting are, without doubt, the TOWN HALL, which dates back to the 13th century, as does the Church of St. Augustine, the Romanic church of St. Bartholomew with the Portal of Frederick II (1244) to be found near-by and the Church of St. Chiara where, inside, you'll discover paintings by the Umbrian school.
You absolutely should not forget to visit the 14th century Church of St. Francis, which is now the seat of the Pinacoteque; in fact, inside, you'll find many paintings of great artistic value such as the "Nativity" by Perugino and the extraordinary cycle of frescoes: " The Stories of St. Francis " by Benozzo Gozzoli
If you are hungry dine at the restaurant of the lovely and elegant villa hotel VILLA PAMBUFFETTI (Via delle Vittorie, 20 Tel. 0742 379417) just 200 m. outside the town walls, and their great home made recipes such as Tagliolini alle verdure (special pasta with vegetables). Try also the exquisite desserts…
Arrive in Spoleto in the late afternoon, check in your hotel and take a walk in the picturesque old town. Spoleto will be your base for the next 4 days.
DAY 7 - SPOLETO
This Umbrian town, even if shows evident traces of the Roman era even in its urban structure, substantially maintains a medieval appearance, due to the period in which it was first a flourishing Longobard Duchy, and then an important city within the Papal State.
The first testimony coming from hill S. Elia belongs to the iron age.
Beautiful and austere city with a very ancient history, today Spoleto is one of the principal touring centers of Umbria, due to the importance of its monuments and cultural manifestations, which take place here such as the famous “FESTIVAL DEI DUE MONDI” (Festival of the two Worlds).
Spoleto is home to many ancient buildings including the Church of San Pietro - which displays "the most beautiful Romanesque facade in Umbria, the 4th century Christian Church of San Salvatore-one of the oldest in the world, a Romanesque monument decorated with rosettes and a mosaic design containing frescoes by Pinturicchio and Filippo Lippi, a 1st century AD Roman Theatre, and the ROCCA ALBORNOZIANA - one of the most splendid castles in central Italy.
More modern monuments as the fascinating Churches of St. Dominic and St. Ponziano, both of which were built during the 12th century. The church of St. Peter is surely of great interest because of its extraordinary bas-reliefs which decorate the facade which dates back to the 12th century.
From the area found in front of the Church of St. Peter one enjoys a wide panorama which encompasses all of Spoleto until the mighty Bridge of the Towers (ten arches with a total height of 80 meters and 230 meters long), which connects the Castle, which was constructed from 1352 onwards on the orders of the Cardinal Egidio Albornoz according to plans by Matteo Gattaponi, to the runners of the mountain which dominates the city. Monteluco was, in fact, the sacred mountain of the anchorites, who having settled in this zone from the 7th century on, founded the convent of St. Francesco, to be found at about 8 km's distance from the inhabited area, and the church of St. Julian.
Without doubt, on the person who has the good luck of visiting these sights, the entire Cathedral complex constructed during the 12th century and characterized apart from the richness of furnishings of the interior also by the mosaics in the Byzantine style on its facade, and the Romanic Church of St. Eufemia will make an unforgettable impression
THE GREAT EVENT IN SPOLETO…THE FESTIVAL OF THE TWO WORLDS!!
The FESTIVAL takes place every year from the end of June until middle July and it is Italy’s leading International arts festival with music, dance and theater scene, attracting many big name stars A series of theatre productions, films, dance, music and opera, tickets for which are much sought after.
The Roman theatre and the Piazza del Duomo create unique backdrops for the rich variety of concerts and opera which feature both emerging talent and artists of international standing who have made this festival Italy's most prestigious cultural event. Operas, performances of orchestral, chamber and choral music as well as instrumental recitals, dance and theatre are performed in a wonderful range of intimate venues, such as small churches, basilicas and eighteenth century theatres. Imagine lingering in a delightful piazza on a warm summer evening after a wonderful performance…simply great and unforgettable!!!
We can arrange private gourmet wine tasting of Sagrantino and Montefalco Red wine in a winery near Spoleto. According to the season you will look for truffle with a local peasant and his dogs, taste "Bruschetta" the traditional garlic bread with freshly milled olive oil at an oil mill or learn how Pecorino cheese is made.
The traditional cuisine of the Spoleto region is based on lamb, potatoes and pasta. As a most tempting "first dish" we recommend Spaghetti with truffles, which will allow you to savoir the taste of Umbrian truffles just only heated with garlic, salt and pepper. Also very tasty are the Stringozzi, a special form of hand-made pasta, which usually is dressed simply with oil in which garlic has been fried.
Potatoes "alla Spoletina" are a perfect dish to accompany grilled pork, and are cooked with a leaf of sage, then passed in oil and, when they are nearly done, passed in Marsala wine. Among the "second dishes", the Cutlets" alla Spoletina" are among the most well-known. Lamb cutlets, which have been passed in beaten egg with a little wine, salt and pepper, are then passed in bread crumbs or in flour, and then fried in abundant boiling olive oil.
EATING OUT IN SPOLETO…
TRATTORIA DEL FESTIVAL: Via Brignone 8 Tel. 0743 32198 (Cl. on Thu.) Rustic atmosphere in the old center of Spoleto. Umbrian specialties with truffle, game and fish.
TRIC TRAC: Via Arringo 10 Tel. 0743 44592.
PENTAGRAMMA: Via Martani 4 Tel. 0743 223141 - 47838 (Cl. on Mon.) Local dishes such as splet soup, home made pasta with different typical Umbrian specialties.
DAY 8– TODI
Situated on top of a hill in the southern part of Umbria, looking down upon the joining of the Naia Stream into the Tiber River, is the alluring town of TODI, which is not only famous for its medieval ambiance, historic monuments and architecture, but for the beauty of its countryside as well.
The city's past and present importance as an agricultural trading center has enabled it to adjust reference prices for the commodities. The town thrives on its agricultural production, local handmade crafts and a prosperous tourist industry.
There are several theories on the origin of the name: the word Todi could come from "border" ("tutere"), or from the Etrurian "tudicolare", or even from "tutus" ("a fortified place").
Beside the legends about the origins of Todi, the Umbrian people founded the town on 2700 before Christ. Later on, before the Etrurians and after the Romans held the power of the town, and building up a number of monuments, most of which can still be admired, like the NICCHIONI ROMANI on Mercato Vecchio square, which at the beginning were probably part of a basilica.
During the Middle Ages, Todi was always in fight against the close Orvieto. On the XII century it became free commune, being this the onset of a very positive period, and marvellous monuments like CAPTAIN PALACE, the PRIORI PALACE, the DOME and the very remarkable SAN FORTUNATO CHURCH were built. On 1236 Jacopone da Todi was born here, one of the first poets to write in Italian dialect and not in Latin.
On 1500, after a long dark period, the town raised again under the Renaissance influence; dated during this time has to be found the marvellous Consolazione Temple. Many of the public buildings raised during this time are due to the bishop Angelo Cesi.
Park the car just outside the walls and take a walk in the old center of Todi toward PIAZZA DEL POPOLO, formerly central point of the Roman town, and closed in the Middle Ages by four doors, which is the heart of the town.
From the coffee bars enliving the square one can have a panoramic view of the beautiful rectangular space where are situated the palaces symbol of the spiritual and civil life of the municipality.
Piazza del Popolo is considered one of the most beautiful squares in Italy. In this square you will find the Palazzo dei Priori, Palazzo del Capitano (1293) and Palazzo del Popolo (1214). Palazzo del Capitano has a facade in Gothic style. Palazzo del Popolo is one of the oldest medieval buildings in Todi.
The PALAZZO DEI PRIORI, just in front of the Cathedral, built in the 14th century, enlarged and finished in 1334-1337, with atypical medieval aspect; in the 15th century was built the tower and hundred years later the Renaissance windows.
Up on the wall you will admire the eagle in bronze made by Giovanni di Gigliaccio in 1339: symbol of the town, it grasps a pole with a cloth and, in earlier times, it held in the semi-opened wings two small eagles representing the vassal towns of Terni and Amelia. The building had been built to offer a suitable seat to the Priors - with the workshops at ground level; then it was occupied by the excise office and later by the papal governor.
The PALAZZO DEL CAPITANO, constructed at the end of the 13th century in the Italian Gothic style, has an imposing portico on the ground level, than the first and second floors with elegant three-light and four-light windows.
Nowadays it houses the TOWN MUSEUMS, containing Etruscan, Roman and Medieval finds; pottery, coins, statuettes; interesting frescoes and valuable paintings of 15th, 16th and 17th centuries: among the most considerable the 'Incoronazione della Vergine' by Spagna; moreover there are rooms dedicated to antique cloths, dresses and church vestments.
The PALAZZO DEL POPOLO, connected to the former by a large staircase, is a Gothic-Lombard structure dating back to the 13th century; it was called 'Comune Vecchio' (Old town hall); this building too is characterized, at ground floor level, by a portico supported on flattered arches; the façade is adorned with four-light mullioned windows, and, on the top, a fine crenellated roofline in Ghibellino style.
There is also a tower-bell, built in 1330, on the top of which was placed a clock in 1523. First Priors' residence, in 1236 it housed Pope Gregorio IX, and from the 18th to the 19th century it was converted into a theatre, La Scaletta.
A side of this building faces Garibaldi square, with the monument to this famous personage; there is also a very tall cypress, planted in 1849 by two Todi citizens to remind people the coming of Garibaldi, and a wonderful panoramic view.
DAY 9 - ORVIETO
Check out from your hotel and head toward Orvieto taking the SS3b or the SS204 and then the highway A1, in the case you would like to do a short visit to S. Gemini, Amelia etc.
ORVIETO is a medieval city dramatically set on a high promontory. Its origins go back to the Etruscan civilization: the first Etruscan settlements, going back to the 9th Century B.C.. The city exists in symbiosis with the tuff cliff on which it stands, an extraordinary example of the integration of nature by the work of man.
An example of the fact that our ancestors were aware of this relationship between architecture and nature is the inscription on the famous well of San Patrizio, which reads: quod natura munimento inviderat industria adiecit (What nature denied for defence - in this case water - was added by the work of man).
Visiting this town means journeying through history, for traces of each and every period of the almost three thousand years of its existence crop up everywhere in this preconstituted physical entity.
Its CATHEDRAL or DOME is one of the wonders of Italian art and architecture with gilded mosaics and sculpted columns, taking over 300 years to complete. Strolling down the narrow medieval alleyways you will suddenly find yourself face to face with this astounding façade, which soars seven stories into the sky.
Built in commemoration of a miracle (the Corpus Domini) that occurred not here, but in Bolsena, in Lazio, the basic building is quite sober, constructed of bands of black and white stone; but a most extraordinary façade has been applied to it: bronze dragons, gables with mosaics resplendent in gold, and a marvellous front of bas-reliefs by Lorenzo Maitani: a 13th century interpretation of the sculptural style of imperial Rome
The botteghe in the old town display colorful Renaissance ceramics, which are a local specialty. Take the time to explore the winding streets, stop for lunch at one of the many restaurants and admire the incredible view.
During the Middle Age most of the palaces and holy buildings were built, among which the very famous CATHEDRAL stands out, dated back to 1263, undoubtedly the most important architectural landmark of the city, with its splendid Gothic facing and the richness of the ornaments and internal chapels.
In the ancient town we also find the S. PATRIZIO WELL, a deep well shaft into the rock, with two corkscrew staircases and built in 1527 based on a plan of Antonio da Sangallo il Giovane.
Further interesting historical buildings are the Palace of the Seven from 1300, the Palace of People Captain (12th Century) inside which took place the meetings of the People's Council, Saint Andrew’s Church (12th Century), Saint Domenic’s Church (12th Century), Saint Giovenale’s Church (11th Century), Soliano Palace (1262) within which, you will find two museums: the Museum of the Opera del Duomo and the Museum of Modern Art. Moreover we remember the Mancinelli Theatre (1866), the suggestive Underground City and the Necropolis of the Crucifix of Tufo dating back to the Etruscan period.
Head to Florence in the afternoon and spend your last night there to fly out next morning.
DAY 10 – FLY HOME
Pricing (final price is based on time of year and available hotels)
Based on charming 3 star boutique hotels with all amenities €3,495
Based on First Class, 4 star €4,195
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