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The Amalfi Coast
Rome, Sorrento, Positano, Capri and More
DAY 1 – EN ROUTE TO ROME – ARRIVE NEXT DAY
DAY 2 - ARRIVE IN ROME - ORIENTATION
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Arrive in Rome Fiumicino Airport and take a taxi to your hotel (about €65) the ride takes about 40 minutes.
Check in and relax and freshen up, then head for an orientation walk of Rome; your location will be central to all sights. If you are hungry get a bite at one of the restaurant locations below.
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Walk around the Spanish Steps, Piazza del Popolo and Fountain of Trevi and the many streets around this bustling historic area. This is the very heart of historic Rome and wherever you walk, you are sure to find a famous monument, palace or museum. Everything is within a 1-mile walking radius making sightseeing easy.
The world-famous Piazza di Spagna owes its name to the presence of the Spanish Embassy in previous centuries. The stairway of the Church of Trinita dei Monti was built in 1720 and until the end of the 1800's was “the sitting room” of the city. There is a museum dedicated to Keats and Shelley in the piazza. In its entire splendor in the middle of the square is the Fontana della Barcaccia (Fountain of the Old Boat), designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini's father, Pietro.
From Piazza di Spagna it is possible to reach the terrace of Pincio, from where you can enjoy one of the most romantic views of the city.
CAFÉ'S - BREAK
Around the Spanish Steps on the number one shopping street in Rome - Via Condotti is the Antico Caffe' Greco - over 200 years old. This is where Lord Byron, Goethe and Liszt would stop to have a pastry and coffee or drinks. It is expensive. Otherwise head for the next parallel street - Via Frattina and take a seat at one of the 2 main café's - this is where Rome comes strolling by.
Walk along the elegant Via del Corso (One of the most elegant shopping streets in Rome along with the nearby Via Frattina) in direction Piazza Venezia and then turn left at Via Muratte…you will arrive directly at the most famous and spectacular of the Roman fountains, THE TREVI FOUNTAIN. Immortalized through paintings, engravings, photographs and films (“La Dolce Vita”), it is and will remain a sight worth seeing for many years to come. Tradition says that if you throw a coin into the fountain over your left shoulder you will return to Rome again soon.
WHERE TO EAT IN ROME….
Le Grotte and Da Mario right off the Spanish Steps on Via della Vite - have your concierge reserve for Da Mario, Via della Vite 55. @ Tel. 06 678 3818.
Le Grotte is one of the most famous and traditional Roman restaurants. Excellent pizza and top antipasto choice. Via della Vite 37. Reserve @ Tel. 06 679 5336.
Da Giggetto in the historic heart of Rome, Via del Portico d'Ottavia, 21a/22 or Il Pompiere Via S. M. Dei Calderari 38. Tel. 686 83 77. Cl. Sun.
Fortunato al Pantheon right near the Pantheon. A survivor in the culinary Roman empire: politicians and yuppies are frequent visitors: Superb antipasto table and genuine food at good prices. A meal here should be about $40 if you want soup to nuts and drink the house wine. You can eat for less. Via del Pantheon 55, Tel.06 67 92 788.
Al Moro Fellini's favorite, wine repertory and chic atmosphere. Vicolo delle Bollette 13. Tel. 06 67 83 495
Osteria dell’Antiquario P.tta S.Simeone, 27 00186 ROMA Tel.: 06-6879694. Another top suggestions is Cul de Sac one of the historical restaurants in Rome. Great wine list with over 1400 labels. Traditional roman cuisine. P.za Pasqualino 73, Te. 06 68801094.
BEST COFFEE IN ALL OF ROME - just steps from the Pantheon - Tazza D'Oro.
Da Lucia (near the Tiber as you cross over towards the Tiberina Island - cheap, Vicolo del Mattonato. Tel. 06 580 36 01. Very traditional simple fare, no frills.
FURTHER SUGGESTIONS…good for the taste and for the wallet!!!
For the BEST PIZZA IN ROME - Da Ivo, Via di San Francesco a Ripa ask concierge - there is usually a line outside….try also the Pizzeria near Piazza di Spagna, La Capricciosa Largo dei Lombardi 8.
DAY 3 - VATICAN - ST. PETER - THE SISTINE CHAPEL - ROMAN FORUM - COLISEUM
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Morning tour of the VATICAN, ST. PETERS, and SISTINE CHAPEL together with your private guide, who will pick you up directly at your hotel. You can of course also settle another itinerary with him/her based on your interests. Take the metro direct to the Vatican or a taxi.
The S. Peter’s Dome is the largest, most famous and magnificent basilica in the world. Within it lie works of art (including Michelangelo’s “Pieta”) covering almost 2000 years of history. The Basilica was originally built where the Apostle Saint Peter was believed to have been buried. The current basilica was inaugurated in 1626 and only later the square in front was planned and completed with its colonnade by Bernini.
Open 7 a.m.-7 p.m. Climb into the dome, entrance from the portico: open 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Explore the Vatican Museums’ collection of Egyptian, Etruscan, Roman, Renaissance and Baroque art, works by Michelangelo, Raphael, Caravaggio and Canova as well as the awe-inspiring Sistine Chapel.
LUNCH - I suggest you take a cab with guide to CAMPO DEI FIORI MARKET and eat at LA CARBONARA right on the square. This is Rome's most colorful and lively outdoor market. Around you are picturesque streets, squares and ancient buildings.
PM
Continue with private guide or on your own to the ROMAN and IMPERIAL FORUM, COLISEUM, and CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS.
The rise of IMPERIAL FORUM marked the passage from Republic to Empire, thanks to Giulius Cesar that built the first forum of the complex in 46 b.C.; all Roman Imperators wanted to live a distinguishing mark taking its name from them. The archaeological area is one of the richest all over the world, and for who loves art and Roman civilization the Imperial forum is one of the most interesting examples Rome can offer. The most important forum of the complex is the Traianus one;
At the end of the Via dei Fori Imperiali you will find the COLOSSEUM, the most famous monument of Ancient Rome. Its original name is Flavian Amphitheatre. Later it has been renamed with its popular name, the Colosseum, because it was built near where the Emperor Nero had erected a huge statue, or colossus of himself. It showed him as the god of the sun. It was 100 feet high, and it was the largest gilded bronze statue in antiquity. It was later moved away. It took 24 elephants to move it!
Nearby is the Roman Ghetto a very old part of Rome where the Jews still live. If time allows your guide can take you there also. There are excellent restaurants serving authentic Roman cuisine among the old ruins of Rome.
The CAPITOLINE MUSEUM houses some very important Roman and Greek sculptures and the Capitoline Hill (one of the historical seven hills of Rome) itself was designed largely by Michelangelo (few know he was an excellent architect). There is plenty of walking here. The view over the Roman Forum is wonderful at sunset.
DAY 4 - BORGHESE GALLERY - DORIA PAMPHILI PALACE
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VILLA BORGHESE is the most beautiful public garden in Rome, created by Cardinal Borghese at the beginning of the 17th century. Two of the nicer areas of the park are the Giardino del Lago, where you can rent boats, and Piazza Siena, where international equestrian events take place each spring. Just beyond the park is the Bioparco (Rome’s Liberty-style zoo), the Casino Borghese and now used for the Borghese Gallery, and the Palazzo delle Belle Arti (the Building of Fine Arts), built in 1911 and now home of the National Gallery of Modern Art. The park is open from dawn to dusk every day.
BORGHESE GALLERY. This is Rome's finest collection and a small, intimate museum. The very best art can offer housed in what was one of the city's most elegant palaces, owned by the Borghese family surrounded by the vast park and gardens. It is near the Via Veneto.
We will reserve tickets for you and inform you at which time you should pick up your tickets. You then just need to give your reservation number, pay for the tickets (about $ 5 USD) and enjoy the visit. Museum opens at 9:00 a.m.
After, stroll through the gardens towards the center of town and down Piazza del Popolo with its huge Obelisks and Fountains. If you didn't already, take a taxi-ride to CAMPO DEI FIORI - Rome's most colorful market shouldn't be missed. It is the very essence of Rome. Many wonderful trattorias and restaurants around there I can recommend.
Other option is to walk down the Corso from Piazza del Popolo where there are several important churches and the main shopping hub.
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HALF DAY TOUR IN ROME
Further suggestions…
DORIA PAMPHILI PALACE - Another sumptuous palace still owned by the Pamphili family. Make sure you take the tour of the private apartments, which usually is every hour. This is located on the CORSO the long shopping street that starts at Piazza del Popolo and ends at the Monument to VICTOR EMMANUEL and PIAZZA VENEZIA - where Mussolini used to give his speeches. Address is Piazza del Collegio Romano 1/a open Mon; Tues; and Fri-Sunday (just off the Corso).
DORIA PAMPHILI GALLERY displays a rich collection of major works by Italian artists from the 1500s and 1600s: Titian, Raphael, Filippino Lippi, Correggio, Caravaggio, Guercino, Guido Reni, Lorenzo Bernini, Velazquez.
Piazza del Collegio Romano, 1A. Open 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Closed Thurs.
ICE CREAM STOP
Walk over to the PANTHEON, the area has some of the best Gelato/ice-cream in the country. GIOLITTI however has been the undisputed champion since my grandmother's time. From the Pantheon (closes @ 6:30 p.m.) walk over to the sprawling PIAZZA NAVONA and the surrounding side streets. The café Tre Scalini has the most intense chocolate truffle ice cream in Rome. Justifiably famous.
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CASTEL SANT'ANGELO - ROMAN WALKS
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CASTEL SANT'ANGELO was the Pope's wartime fortress. A climb to the very top offers an unforgettable view of the city including St. Peter's dome, the Tiber River and the terracotta roof tiles of Rome. To access the castle you cross one of the more beautiful bridges of the city - Ponte Sant'Angelo. From here you can walk along the Tiber, crossing back over toward the heart of Rome and amble among the streets leading to Via dei Coronari - a charming street where all of the antique shops are located. Tiny piazzas, appear out of no-where.
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UKNOWN ROME: TRASTEVERE - TIBER ISLAND
This area is known to be where "true Romans" are born and bred. Trastevere is the Italian form of the Latin expression trans Tiberim, i.e. "beyond the Tiber" and probably Rome's most typical quarter, where old houses and narrow streets remind us what the whole city must have looked like centuries ago.
The heart of this quarter is a charming square, piazza S.Maria in Trastevere, featuring an ancient church, whence the name of the place, and a fountain. Legend has it that a miraculous well of oil sprang from this spot when Christ was born, and flowed to the Tiber all day.
Although Trastevere has undergone a re-birth after having been forgotten it still (at least for now) retains an authentic charm and this is where to have a pizza and where to look for tiny boutiques along the way.
SPECIAL EVENING DINNER IN TRASTEVERE: Another option for one of your dinners is to head for Trastevere in the heart of Rome, where the "real" Romans live. Take a cab over there, see the Church of Santa Maria in Trastevere and the Piazza late afternoon, before dinner and reserve a table outside at ROMOLO nel GIARDINO della Fornarina. Tel. 581 8284. Closed Monday.
GREAT CHURCHES - THE BATH OF CARACALLA
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Rome is the only city in the world with the most churches. It would take months to visit all of them and at the end you would probably think they all look the same way! However every single church, chapel, basilica has a singular history…here are just some of the most important and beautiful…
The Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano is the cathedral of Rome and the mother church of the Catholic world. The famous Galileo Galilei created the facade on Piazzale di Porta S. Giovanni (the main entrance of the basilica) and Fontana the one on Piazza di San Giovanni.
The beautiful Church of Santa Maria Maggiore is the largest Roman church dedicated to the Virgin and dates from the time of Sixtus III (432-40). Major restorations and changes are from the middle of the 16th century, although from the 13th to the 14th centuries the portico was added and the campanile (the highest of all Roman campaniles) was built. It is said that the gold used for the ceiling was the first brought back from America by Columbus.
According to a legend, the Church of Santa Maria in Aracoeli, which overlooks the magnificent Imperial Forum, is one of the most enchanting churches in the center of Rome, also due to its unique setting near the Campidoglio and Piazza Venezia. The staircase of 122 steps will lead you to the top of the hill from where you will enjoy a breathtaking view over the rooftops of Rome.
Santa Maria in Cosmedin
Erected in the 6th century on the site of the food distribution center of ancient Rome, which existed among a group of temples dedicated to Hercules. The portico, which is of the 12th century, holds the famous BOCCA DELLA VERITA’ (the Mouth of Truth), originally a drain covering in the shape of a great face with an open mouth - the mask of a river god. The Mouth of Truth, it was said, would close on the hand of a liar, cutting off the fingers!!! It will surely worth a try…
DAY 5, 6, 7, 8 – THE AMALFI COAST
Take the train down to Naples (about 2 hours ride). We strongly suggest renting a car for the Amalfi (1 hour from Naples) since you will be free to explore the surroundings as you prefer. We can of course also arrange a private transfer to pick you up at the station and then take you down to your hotel and there are local buses but a car gives you more freedom.
POSITANO
This can be your base for the next days. From here you can explore the surrounding coast: Vietri sul Mare, Sorrento, Ravello, and Capri, plus Pompeii and Herculaneum.
Your hotel overlooks the ocean, check in, and revel in the surroundings, the view and the fresh sea air. Take a walk on the beach, where most of the action is!
Positano is the favored town on the coast. Its white washed houses cling to the coast along the bay. There are stairs everywhere, going in every direction so climbing is essential to get anywhere. Great Shopping is possible here and you can also visit the Emerald Grotto – GROTTA SMERALDA that is 8 miles outside Positano. The clothing shops here are some of the best places to buy. Parking is pay only unless your hotel offers parking and parking is very difficult to find – although if you head there not in the very high season the situation should be much better.
EATING OUT IN POSITANO:
Da Adolfo Several coves away from Positano's Spiaggia Grande, on a little beach where pirates once built and launched their boats, this laid-back trattoria is a local landmark. Sit under a straw canopy on a wooden terrace to enjoy totani con patate (squid and potatoes with garlic and oil) Some diners even swim here - so bathing suits are just fine. Spiaggia di Laurito, Phone: 089/875022. No credit cards. Closed Oct.-May.
Donna Rosa Great pasta recipes, of course with homemade pasta, one has even arugula in it, mixed with clams, mussels, porcini mushrooms, and artichokes. Reservations essential for dinner. Via Montepertuso, Phone: 089/811806. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon.
Il grottino Azzurro High on a hill above Positano, by a church on a pretty piazza, this family-run trattoria serves delicious fresh pasta and fish to the locals as well as savvy tourists Via Chiesa Nuova, Phone: 089/875466. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Wed
La Cambusa Linguine with mussels and fresh fish with new potatoes and tomato sauce are among the favorites. High standards also during the high season!! Great terrace over the Spiaggia Grande. Piazza Amerigo Vespucci 4, Phone: 089/875432. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Wed. except in summer.
SORRENTO
Sorrento lies across the Bay of Naples. To get here, you take the S145 and the Autostrada A3. Some parts are not pretty, but most of the road is quite breathtaking and the vulcano VESUVIUS lies in the background, as does the huge Mt. Faito. The coast towards Amalfi is generally less congested than the coast towards Sorrento. Early autumn is a great time to be here. The town is of course worth seeing as are the views from the VILLA COMUNALE and the terrace that lies behind the MUSEO CORREALE. It is a collection of antiques, decorative art objects and porcelain - a bit of everything really. The main PIAZZA TASSO and the VIA SAN CESAREO are in the center of the action. Here you can buy crafts. The town's narrow alleys end up in a pedestrian lane (follow Via Marina Grande) and find the only tiny beach of the city.
RESTAURANT SUGGESTIONS IN SORRENTO…
Always try to eat outside in these parts - that way you have good food, wine and a great view included in your meal price!
Don Alfonso 1890 The greatest restaurant in Campania, 7 km (4½ mi) south of Sorrento, this is the domain of Alfonso Iaccarino, who counts Prince Rainier of Monaco as one of his many fans. Nearly everything is homemade, from olive oil created on the family farm to hand-churned butter, which finds its way into sublime desserts such as the pizzo di cioccolato (chocolate "pizza"). Piazza Sant'Agata 11, Sant'Agata sui Due Golfi. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. year-round; Tues. (Oct.-May); and Jan. 10-Feb. 25.
Antica Trattoria Could there be a more charming restaurant in Sorrento? Built in the 1800s and set behind an iron gate, this old house between the public gardens and the Duomo has rooms filled with tiled floors, candles, copper, ceramics, antiques, soft music. Some prefer the more informal, flower-spilled terrace. Via Padres Reginaldo Giuliani 33. Phone 8071082 AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Feb.
La Lanterna On the site of Sorrento's ancient Roman thermal baths (you can still see ruins under a glass section in the floor), this is a historic venue as well as a beloved eatery. You'll enjoy local specialties and old Italian favourites such as veal scallopine alla marsala Via S. Cesareo 23/25, Phone: 081/8781355. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Wed.
RAVELLO (3 miles from Amalfi)
Placed way above Amalfi - Perched on a ridge high above Amalfi and the neighbouring town of Atrani, the enchanting village of Ravello has stupendous views, quiet lanes, two important Romanesque churches, and irresistibly romantic gardens at VILLA RUFOLO AND VILLA CIMBRONE.
A hilly 10-minute walk along Via San Francesco from Ravello's main square takes you to the Villa Cimbrone, whose gardens and belvedere perch 1,500 ft above the sea: The Gothic castello-palazzo is set in idyllic gardens, which are divided by a grand allée, leading to the Belvedere of Infinity, a grand stone parapet, adorned with amusing stone busts, that offers a stupendous view over the entire Bay of Salerno. Scattered among the gardens are a mock-Gothic crypt, a Temple of Bacchus folly, a tea pavilion done in the style of Florence's Pazzi Chapel, and a Grotto of Venus. The villa itself is now a hotel.
The magnificent Villa Rufulo on the other side has Norman and Arab architecture mingle in profusion in a welter of color-filled gardens so lush that composer Richard Wagner used them as inspiration for Klingsor's Garden in his opera Parsifal. Beyond the Arab-Sicilian cloister and the Norman tower are two flower-bedded terraces that offer a spectacular view of the Bay of Salerno set off by the cupolas of the 13th-century Church of Santissima Annunziata and a dramatic umbrella pine tree: Highlights of the villa are its Moorish cloister and the 14th-century Torre Maggiore, today a dramatic spot for chamber-music recitals.
In Ravello you will find less traffic and the best time to come is in the afternoon when the crowds have left. The best use of your time is to just enjoy walking around - there are no monuments, just the beauty of the place. There are concerts here year round both inside and outside depending on weather.
Where to eat in Ravello…
Cumpa Cosimo A family run restaurant in Ravello near the Duomo. You can't miss with any of the dishes featuring classic Ravellian cuisine Reservations essential. Via Roma 44. Phone 089/857156 AE, DC, V. Closed Mon. and Nov.-Mar.
Salvatore The family that owns the place creates classic Campanian cuisine. The service is friendly, and the overlook offers a better view than any inexpensive restaurant in the vicinity. Great dishes for less $$!! Via della Repubbliche 2, Phone: 089/857227 AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. in winter.
AMALFI - 11 miles from Positano
It is a romantic town, rising from a deep gorge with an impressive Duomo to visit. Here too, it is nice just to walk around. Amalfi during the Middle Ages was an independent state and very important city. You can also explore Capri from here.
The town is romantically situated at the mouth of a deep gorge and has some good-quality hotels and restaurants. It's also a convenient base for excursions to Capri and to the Emerald Grotto, just to the south. The parking problem is exceedingly bad here. The small lot in the center of town fills quickly; if you can afford the steep prices, make a luncheon reservation at one of the hotel restaurants and have your car parked for you
LUNCH - LA CARAVELLA - Via M. Camera 12. Tel. 871029. Mid to high - good kitchen.
ISLAND OF CAPRI
Take the Hydrofoil to CAPRI - one of the most enchanting places in Italy. Ride the funicular to the top or take a cab. You can't walk up.
The views, the color of the water, the flowers, and the tiny narrow alleys winding around the island will make Capri seem like paradise.
You can take the excursion to the Blue Grotto (however disappointing and touristy so get ready to wait!!) or much better, head for the 2 hour boat trip around the Island. Done by the Grotta Azzurra company at Marina Grande.
On the island do visit the Church and cloister of CERTOSA di SAN GIACOMO and the GARDENS OF AUGUSTUS as well as the famous VILLA SAN MICHELE (Anacapri).
EATING OUT IN CAPRI…
La Capannina Known as one of Capri's most celebrity-haunted restaurants, it is only a few steps from the busy social hub of the Piazzetta (Capri’s living room). The specialties, complemented by an authentic Capri wine with the house label, are homemade ravioli and insalata caprese. Reservations essential. Via Le Botteghe 14, Phone: 081/8370732. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Wed. (Oct.-May) and mid-Jan.-mid-Mar.
La Fontelina Given its position right on the water's edge, seafood is almost a must!!. Try the polpette di melanzane as starter, and then continue with the vegetable buffet. I Faraglioni, at end of Via Tragara, Capri Town Phone: 081/8370845Access by boat from Marina Piccola or on foot from Punta Tragara (10 minutes). AE. Closed mid-Oct.-Easter. No dinner.
Another great place is La Pigna- Tel. 081/837 0280. Via Lo Palazzo 30. Must reserve, and closed Tuesdays.
SHOPPING ON THE AMALFI COAST
The most esteemed products in the Amalfi Coast area are ceramics from Vietri sul Mare, but some towns also produce local pottery. Amalfi still produces some fine handmade paper, an industry since the Middle Ages. Leather goods are also popular items in small shops along the main streets of Amalfi. Ravello offers coral jewellery and wines. Positano is world famous for its handmade, blazingly colorful resort wear. Lemon-based goods of all sorts are available, and foodstuffs include honey, citrus, and olive products, and pasta.
DAY 9 – HEAD BACK TO ROME
DAY 10 - RETURN HOME
Pricing (final price is based on time of year and available hotels)
Based on charming 3 star boutique hotels €3,995
Based on First Class, 4 star hotels €4,695
Based on Luxury 5 star hotels please inquire
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