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DEPARTURE
Day 1
Depart for your overseas flight to Paris arriving the following day (if you are coming from overseas). A taxi to downtown Paris is around 40 euros and takes from 30 to 40 minutes depending on traffic. There is also the metro line, which runs you directly downtown.
ARRIVAL - ORIENTATION - ILE DE LA CITE' - ST. LOUIS - NOTRE-DAME - CONCIERGERIE - MARCHE' AUX FLEURS
Leave the Paris airport for your hotel. You could start with a visit of the Cité and its surroundings, where 2000 years ago the Parisii founded the colony that in later centuries grew to be the city of Paris. This is an excellent way to get oriented.
Stop in Notre Dame Cathedral and the haunting Conciergerie where prisoners were kept during the Revolution before being taken to the guillotine.
DAYS 2
Choose from the selection below
JACQUEMART ANDRE' MUSEUM - CHAMPS-ELYSEES - ARC DE TRIOMPHE - HOTEL DES INVALIDES.
The recently restored Jacquemart-Andre' mansion houses an extraordinary collection of 19th century art and furnishings which was acclaimed even in its own day. The museum hosts a lovely tea room with wonderful pastries.
Your morning walk continues with the nearby Champs-Elysees, the Arc de Triomphe, and the beautiful Alexander Bridge, passed the Petit and Grand Palace. The last stop is at Napoleon's imposing tomb under the golden dome of the church of Invalides. After lunch check our suggestions, the afternoon is at your disposal to visit the golden triangle of fashion at the avenue Montaigne and rue Francois 1er and stop at the intoxicating Maison du Chocolat to order a cup of the best hot chocolate in Paris.
CHOCOLATE!! and MORE
Walk in and inhale, there is nothing as intoxicating as the smell of a Parisian chocolate shop. The major problem is deciding what to have… our top 3 chocolate meccas are:
The MAISON DU CHOCOLATE - where Mr. Linxe reigns supreme buying and importing his own cocoa beans and mixing them himself. The largest chocolate boutique in his roster is the one on rue Francois Ier #52 off the Champs Elysees. There is space to sit down and order a superb cup of hot chocolate (choose from an entire menu!) and buy a nice box of his exquisite hand made chocolates. We particularly recommend his Romeo's with an arabica coffee interior and the Rigoletto's with caramel filling.
DEBAUVE & GALLAIS - dating from the 1800's as a pharmacy it now has been restored to its original splendor. Around the corner from the Blvd. St. Germain on 30 rue des Saint-Peres.
MICHEL CHAUDUN - 149 rue de l'Universite' also near the Blvd. St. Germain. We recommend the pure bittersweet tablettes….. they linger in your mouth for a long, long time.
For a step into the past and a cup of some of the best hot chocolate don't miss ANGELINA's on the rue de Rivoli, their mont-blanc (chestnut and meringue concoction) isn't bad either.
DAY 3
RUE MONTORGEUIL MARKET - PALAIS ROYALE - OPERA' - MADELEINE - FREE AFTERNOON - DINNER CRUISE
Head for the Rue Montorgeuil market where food is displayed as in a still art painting by Cezanne. The surroundings are dotted with cookware and gourmet shops for those wishing to add to their kitchen collection. The market sells everything from cheeses to bread and pastries and is an excellent way of observing local life. If the sight of all this food is too much for you to bear, and making you hungry, stop at Stohrer open since 1730 for a flaky cream-filled puff pastry creation called pithiviere.
Continue with the nearby Palais Royale gardens encircled by unusual boutiques and restaurants, plus the Place des Victoires. Always on gourmet themes, you can admire the windows of Fouchon the city's temple of gastronomy.
LOUVRE - PLACE de la CONCORDE - TUILERIES GARDENS
The Louvre is the world's undisputed greatest museum, even greater now after the renovations and embellishments that reorganised the various collections and made room for many more works of art that previously had been left in storage. Walk through the marvellous works of art housed under the new construction of I.M.Pei, a city within a city. In the afternoon is your beauty treatment (optional).
Tonight is your dinner cruise. At least once in a lifetime you should float down the Seine at night admiring the brightly lit monuments while dining on fine French cuisine and wine.
PASTRIES, CROISSANTS AND CAKES
Voted the best millefuille in Paris, stop in FOUCHON's patisserie on Place de la Madeleine.
LADUREE is our favorite tea room and their croissants and macarons the best in Paris. Located off the Place de la Madeleine. They serve Mariage Freres teas, while the café' au lait is possibly the finest in the city.
LENOTRE - the king of pastry chefs, you will find shops all over the city. His chocolates are tops and we recommend his breads, cakes, ice creams…basically everything!
PATISSERIE MILLET - to taste Tradition: madeleines, the butter and almond financiers and almond croissants. There is a small tea salon to sample whatever strikes your fancy. The pain au chocolate is packed with bittersweet chocolate bars.
DOLLOYAU - all over the city. Offering everything including light lunches. Feel free to indulge in their mogador a chocolate cake with chocolate mousse and a layer of raspberry jam.
DAY 4
THE MARAIS - CARNEVALET MUSEUM - PLACE des VOSGES - VICTOR HUGO'S HOME - BASTILLE
This fascinating Quartier used to be a marsh (Marais means marsh in French) which King Charles V had drained in the 14th century. Later, Henry IV in the 17th century turned it into prime real estate and the area soon became the city's most fashionable address. Today many of the mansions have been carefully restored and turned into museums.
The Musee Carnevalet dedicated to the history of Paris, is our first stop. This wonderfully intimate museum used to be Madame Sevigne's home and is filled with an amazing variety of items including a recreation of rooms such as Prousts' bedroom and the splendid gilt ballroom of the hotel Wendel. Your walking itinerary continues to the Place des Vosges, Paris' most perfect square built by Henry the IV, Victor Hugo's home and the eclectic Bastille neighbourhood. After lunch the rest of the afternoon is free to explore this fascinating area. For lunch try some of the restaurants under the arches of the Place des Vosges such as La Guirlande de Julie.
DAY 5
THE ORSAY MUSEUM
The Orsay museum with its Impressionist collection is one of the highlights of your trip. The structure itself re-designed by Italian architect Gae Aulenti merits a visit and displays objects d'art, furnishings and sculpture.
Optional: FONTAINEBLEAU CASTLE and BARBIZON EXCURSION-
The morning is at your own pace; you may wish to further explore the Left Bank, meander through the Luxembourg Gardens planted by Marie de Medici or visit the colorful Latin Quarter. The Boulevard St. Germain's side streets and café's are worth exploring.
Fontainebleau Chateau and the village of Barbizon are this afternoon's destination, please be in your hotel lobby by 1:15 p.m. to be picked up by mini-bus and guide. Francois I, during the Renaissance originally built it to be a hunting lodge. Successive additions and embellishments by King Henry II, Louis the XIV and lastly Napoleon, have resulted in one of the finest chateaux's in France. The gardens laid out by royal gardener Le Notre, the throne room and magnificent ballroom are some of the high points of the excursion.
RESTAURANTS
Note that all restaurants have fixed price menus for lunch and sometimes even for dinner.
RESTAURANTS
1. ARRONDISSEMENT
L’ARDOISE- 28 rue du Mont-Thabor – Tel. 01 42962818. Closed Mon. Menu a’ la carte starting at € 26, about $ 24 USD . Interesting wine-cellar
CARRE’ DES FEUILLANTS – 14 rue de Castiglione – Tel 01 42868282. Cl. Sat for lunch and Sun. and 3 weeks in August. € 84-122, about $ 77-112 USD. Typical cuisine. Try the exquisite bœuf de Chalosse, les haricots tarbais, le foie gras, l’agneau de lait des Pyrenees. Very good barbecue cooking. With wine-cellar.
LES CARTES POSTALES – 7 RUE Gomboust – Tel. 01 42610293. Cl. Sat for lunch and Sun. € 21–53, about $ 20-49 USD. Little minimalist room. Delicate mix of French-Japanese cuisine. Warm and efficient service
LE GRAND VEFOUR – 17 rue de Beaujolais – Tel. 01 42965627. Cl. Sat., Sun and August. € 107-137, about $ 98-126 USD. Classic but also alternative new dishes and superb desserts. by the renowned cooks of restaurant Le Grand Vefour.
IL CORTILE – 37 rue Cambon – Tel. 01 44584567. Cl. Sat & Sun. € 31-48, about $ 29-44 USD.Italian restaurant. Very good risotto aux morilles and pannacotta with vanilla and lemon flavor . Tasty olive oil and wide range of wines.
LESCURE -7 rue de Mondovi - Tel 01 42601891. Cl. Sat , Sun., 1-24 August and 24 Dec- 2 Jan. € 23-27, approx $ 21-25 USD. Family running. Since 1919 people stop here for lunch or dinner before a stroll at the Tuileries. Very good pot-au-feu, pate’ en croûte, fraise de veau ravigote.
MACEO – 15 rue des Petits-Champs – Tel. 01 42975385. Cl. Sun. € 27-34, approx. $ 25-31 USD. Delicate touches of exoticism in the dishes offered by this restaurant. Terrine de foie gras au chutney de mangue et papaye, subtils éminces de porc a la thaïlandaise with spices. Wide range of wines from all over the world.
PALAIS-ROYAL – 110 Galerie de Valois in front of 4 rue de Beaujolais – Tel. 01 40200027. Cl. Sat. at lunch, Sun. and 21 Dec-4 Jan. € 30-50, approx.$ 28-46 USD. A terrace under the Palais-Royal arcades. Fondant de tourteau, and millefeuille aux fruits rouges.
CHEZ GEORGES – 1 rue du Mail – Tel 01 42600711. Cl. Sun and 1 April-21 August. € 30-53, approx. $ 28-49 USD. Few steps from place des Victoires. Excellent tarte Tatin, rognons de veau grilles, saucisson, terrine de foies de volaille.
GALLOPIN – 40 rue Notre-Dame-des-Victoires – Tel. 01 42364538 - Cl. Sat. (July-August) and Sun. € 30-46, approx. $ 28-42 USD. Nice decorations well preserved since 1900. Cuisine: cote de bœuf a la moelle, andouillette, foie gras and choucroute de la mer.
4. ARRONDISSEMENT
LE DOME DU MARAIS – 53 bis rue des Francs-Bourgeois – Tel. 01 42745417. Cl. Sun. and 15-30 August. € 28-38, approx. $ 26-35 USD. Restored room of the ancient Mont de Piete which recalls the atmosphere of theatre a l’italienne. Refined menu a la carte. Superb thon mi-cuit en brochettes with vierge de fenouil and legumes d’ete’. Good desserts: dacquoise de fruits rouges a la pistache, croustillants de banane au curry.
5. ARRONDISSEMENT
L’ATLAS – 12 bd saint-Germain – Tel. 01 44072366. Cl. Mon. € 28-50, approx. $ 26-46 USD. African cuisine (Maghreb). Near River Seine and Ile Saint-Louis. Beautiful decoration with mosaics and wood Large variety of couscous (lamb, pigeon, 3 fishes and quail) and tangine.
LE BISTROT D’A’ COTE’- Tel. 01 43545910. Cl. Sat. At lunch and Sun. € 29, approx. $ 27 USD. Dishes suggested: Feuillete de reblochon au lard, salade de gésiers, cote de bœuf and souffle’ au chocolat.
6. ARRONDISSEMENT
ALCAZAR – 62 rue Mazarine – Tel. 01 53101999. € 28-52, approx. $ 26-48 USD. Located in the ancient cabaret de la rue Mazarine. Chic brasserie. Crostinis de Legumes a la provençale with vinaigrette, poulet fermier des Landes, fraises with spiced sirop.
LES BOOKINISTES – 53 quai des Grands-Augustins – Tel. 01 43254594. € 31-31, approx $ 29-32 USD. Near River Seine. Refined and harmonic ambience. Walls decorated with colored stones. Exotic flavors blended with tartare de bar and daurade au gingembre, fricassee de sot-l’y-laisse and sable pommes-rhubarbe.
L’EPI DUPIN – 11 rue Dupin – Tel. 01 42226456. Cl. Sat., Sun and 1-25 August. € 25, approx. $ 23 USD. Better to reserve few days in advance, the little room is constantly full. One of the best restaurants considering relation quality-price.Petit flan-pate de cepes with crème de persil, caille rôtie a l’ail and aux girolles, pêche rôtie avec une tender glace a la lavande.
YUGARAJ – 14 rue Dauphine – Tel. 01 43264491. Cl. Mon. € 27-41, approx. $ 25-38 USD. Indian cuisine. Central position in a central borough. Try the murghi shorba (chicken soup with carrots and celery) and the beghen ghost ( leg of lamb with aubergines, onions and tomatoes). Selection of Bordeaux and cotes-du-rhone.
7. ARRONDISSEMENT
L’AFFRIOLE’ – 17 rue Malar – Tel 01 44183133. Cl. Sun and Mon. € 38-56, approx. $ 35-52 USD. Renewed salon. It offers: croustillant a l’andouille de Bretagne, blanc de lieu with chorizo, cuisse de canard rôtie aux olives, baked reine-des-reinettes and mousse au chocolat in cappuccino.
AU BON ACCUEIL – 14 rue de Monttessuy – Tel. 01 47054611. € 43-59, approx. $ 40-54 USD. Bistrot. Interesting wine carte. Supreme de volaille du Cros de la Geline aux petit pois, rognon de veau roti.
LE CLOS DES GOURMETS – 16 av Rapp – Tel. 01 45517561. Cl. Sun at lunch, Mon. and 1-20 August. € 27, about $ 25 USD. Very good roustic dishes and provençal dishes like the poulette fermiere du Gers but also innovative dishes like the dessert fenouil confit au sorbet citron-basilic.
8. ARRONDISSEMENT
AL AJAMI – 58 rue Francois-Ier – Tel. 01 42253844 - € 26-38, about $ 24- 35 USD. Middle East cuisine. Founded in 1920 in Beirut this sign is present in numerous capitals all over the world. Lebanon cuisine is very good and respects traditions, hommos, mezzes vegetarians, chawarma, karabige accompanied by Keffraya or Ksara red or rose. Nice oriental decorations.
L’ETOILE MAROCAINE – 56 rue Galilee – Tel. 01 47204443. € 27-44, approx. $ 25- 41 USD. African cuisine (Maghreb). One of the most renowned restaurants of Moroccan cuisine. The Zaalouk of aubergines, tagine de poulet fermier and mechoui are superb.
TAILLEVENT – 15 rue Lamennais – Tel 01 44951501. Cl. Sat., Sun. and 24 July-24 August. € 91 – 137, about $ 84- 127 USD. Atmosphere of classicism. Dishes are little works of art: fricassee de homard Breton aux chataignes, carre de veau en rognonnade, poulette-de-bresse en cocotte lutée, andouillette de pied de porc aux truffes. Exceptional wine cellar. Unique prices for a restaurant of this level.
9. ARRONDISSEMENT
BISTROT DE GALA – 45 rue du Fg-Montmartre – Tel 01 40229050. Cl. Sat at lunch, Sun and 3 weeks in August. € 26, about $ 24 USD. Bistrot. Very good dishes and a pleasant savoir-faire. Oeufs brouilles aux tourteaux, saint-pierre with embeurree de choux vert, terrine au pain d’épice are among the suggested options. Wine carte affordable.
LE SANTAL OPERA – 8 rue Halevy pl de l’Opera – Tel. 01 47422469. Cl. Sun. € 30 –38, about $ 28 – 35 USD. Eastern cuisine. Temple of Vietnamese gastronomy. Typical dishes: salade aux fruits de mer, soups and tempura de fruits et legumes.
11. ARRONDISSEMENT
ASTIER – 44 rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud – Tel. 01 43571635. € 18-21, approx. $ 16-19 USD. It is a sort of institution at 11. Arrondissement. Panache de Bulots ultra fresh with aioli subtil and magret de canard with ratatouille fondante. The wine carte looks like a who’s who of the best wine producers.
14. ARRONDISSEMENT
LA COUPOLE – 102 bd du Montparnasse – Tel. 01 43201420. € 23-53, about $ 21-49. Cocteau, Hemingway, Sartre and Kessel have been here. The delicious bloc de foie gras with gelée au Riesling, fruits de mer, sole meuniere and curry d’agneau are always available.
16. ARRONDISSEMENT
ALAIN DUCASSE ****– RESTAURANT PLAZA ATHENEE – Hotel Plaza Athénée 25 avenue Montaigne – Tel (0)1 53676500. € 152-229, about $ 140-211 USD. The chef is the top all over Paris. He has given his mark to modern cuisine trends. Mediterranean cuisine. If perfection exists, then you can find it here. Wine cellar with the best wines from all over the world. Some dishes to try: foie gras de canard des Landes, homard Breton, bar de ligne, agneau de lait des Pyrenees, boeuf and petits pois are just few suggestions. Le menu changes according to season.
JAMIN – 32 rue de Longchamp – Tel. 01 45530007. Cl. Sat, Sun. 1-29 August. € 76-107, about $ 70-99 USD. Crème de laitue a la muscade, royale d’oignons nouveaux, fricassee de langoustines with ravioles and petits legumes parfumes au laurier.
THE FRENCH RIVIERA
HEAD FOR THE FRENCH RIVIERA – NICE
DAYS 6,7, 8, 9
Hop on a high speed train ride (about 4 hours maximum). Leave in the am (time to be decided) and head to Nice. Take a cab from the station and settle into your hotel.
Nice will be your base and from here you can explore the surrounding region as everything is close by.
Enjoy Nice - take a walk along the famous Promenade, up to the Bay of Angels. Climb to the top of the Castle/Park and enjoy some amazing views. The park is lovely, there is a waterfall and I have taken some memorable pictures here.
The Old Town is a delight - narrow winding streets with fascinating food, antique and gift boutiques. Then there is the pedestrian Place Massena - the main quare leading into pedestrian only shopping and restaurants. Take an ice cream or chocolate at Henri Auer - number 7 rue St. Francois-de-Paule. This tearoom has the best and is quite beautiful. It is near the food and flower market on Cours Saleya (open only in the mornings and absolutely NOT to be missed!!!!) There is a Chagall Museum - av. du Dr. Menard. Closed Tuesdays.
WHERE TO EAT IN NICE - the food here is bursting with Mediterranean flavor, a mix of Italian and Provencal styles.
LA MERENDA - no reservations, no phone, no credit cards - but worth lining up (for one of the only 9 tables). No menu - every day they prepare something fresh based on what the market has. 4 rue de la Terrasse. Cl. Saturday, Sunday and Monday.
LA CAMBUSE - a bistro on the Cours Saleya. #5. Cl. Sunday
GRAND CAFÉ DE TURIN - a bustling brasserie and the top place for the freshest seafood. Eat outside or inside. This is where to have fresh oysters if you like them. 5 Pl. Garibaldi.
WARNING - do not eat at most of the places on the Cour Saleya (touristy and not fresh) particularly those that have outside fish displays - you can get food poisoning. If you get sick in France or Italy you need to go to a Pharmacy - tell them what you've got and they will prescribe something - they act as doctors in Europe. I've been everywhere in the world and eaten some pretty strange things but I got food poisoning in Nice - so please beware and choose reputable places. Instead the outdoor places around Place Massena are fine - BOCCACCIO is one of the best.
DAY 7
NICE - SAINT JEAN CAP FERRAT - EZE
Sun on the beach and relax. Head towards Cap Ferrat (15 minutes from Nice) Cap Ferrat is an Elegant Lady. The MUST see here is the Villa Ephrussy Rothschild. This is near Beaulieu. The gardens are even more spectacular than the villa. Eze is another must see - perhaps these are the two top stops around Nice. It is a medieval hill town of great beauty perched very high above the sea.
RESTAURANTS: For a very special, romantic meal (there are fixed price menus in France everywhere) have your hotel reserve at the Chateau de la Chevre d'Or ($40 to 55 for fixed price 3 course menu). This 5 * hotel has a terrace restaurant overlooking the sea high on the top of Eze. Rue du Barri Tel. 93 41 12 12. Truly a memorable place to eat.
CAP FERRAT - Panorama: 3 avenue Jean-Monnet. Tel. 93 01 23 07. Or Le Sloop: Port de plaisance. Tel. 93 01 48 63.
EZE - Auberge du Troubador - Rue du Brec. Tel. 93 41 19 03
PS - PARKING SITUATION - there are public garages (pay based on amount of time) everywhere, just watch for the "P" signs.
DAY 8
MONACO - MONTE CARLO - THALASSO SPA (sleep in Nice)
Monte Carlo is famous for many things…..among which the old citadel, the Jacques Costeau Ocean Museum and the magnificent ocean gardens with incredible views in the Old Town.
YOUR THALASSO SPA EXPERIENCE: The Spa is truly spectacular - overlooking the sea so you feel like you are on an ocean liner. Treatments needless to say are top of the line and I have included 4 each per person.
In the evening you can have dinner at the Café de Paris: Place du Casino. Tel. 377/92162020. Right in front of the Casino and just steps from the SPA.
DAY 9
POSSIBLE EXCURSION TO CANNES or SLEEP IN CANNES
Drive to Cannes, on your way down, driving along the coast, follow the signs for VENCE (turning right and heading upwards). Then follow signs for St. Paul de Vence. ST. PAUL DE VENCE is on the way to Cannes, so a logical stop. It is beautiful and only about 25 minutes from Nice to St. Paul and from Nice to Cannes about 1 hour max. There are some lovely places to have lunch - the top restaurants serve fixed price lunches that are a great deal. 3 hours is sufficient to discover this charming village, or you may want to stay longer.
RESTAURANT: LE SAINT-PAUL - the setting is quite romantic and charming. Their fixed price menus are an excellent deal and there are various choices. 86 rue Grande. Tel. 93326525. Do reserve.
CANNES is a modern city/town. It does have a tiny Old Town, but certainly its fame is due to the long-winding beach (white sand - a rarity on the French Riviera) and its incredibly vast selection of boutiques for shopping. The fresh food market is also an eyeful and quite a gastronomic extravaganza with many small local producers showing their finest products.
The Ile des Lerins are minutes away via hydrofoil and an oasis of calm and tranquillity where nature reigns. Swimming in the waters here is an incredible experience. *
RESTAURANTS
In Cannes you can eat at the many (and many) waterfront cafés although there are some very fine restaurants - they are all quite good and generally offer a good deal.
LA SCALA - La Croisette #50. Tel. 92 99 70 00.
My favorite - LE FESTIVAL - 52 - La Croisette. Tel. 93 38 04 81
LA CAVE - a bistro, 9 boulevard Republique. Tel. 93 99 79 87
Great Deal COTE JARDIN - 12 avenue Saint-Louise. Tel. 93 38 60 28
There is sailing, water-skiing and other water sports if you so desire here and along the coast, in St. Tropez in particular because the farther down you go, the more wild and beautiful the coast is and less "polished".
ST. TROPEZ
From Cannes to St. Tropez it is an hour taking the highway, more than that if you want to amble along the shore.
Beaches are all 15 minutes away - there is nothing "in town" as there is in Cannes. You take your car and drive along what looks like an abandoned country bicycle path and find that instead it is a 2 way road! A 4 wheeler would be perfect, but I made it in my car fine. Each beach has a different name - Pampelonne, Tahiti are some of the best known. Around you the scenery is quite wild, bamboo plants growing everywhere and olive groves surround you. You drive right up to the beach or park nearby and can rent towels, umbrellas etc… The water is very clean. The main beaches have café's for snacks on the water.
RESTAURANT: LE PETIT CHARRON - 6 rue des Charrons. Tel. 94977378. Closed Wed. Lovely bistro - great fixed price menus. OR AUBERGE des MAURES: 4 rue du Dr. Boutin - 43 rue Allard. Tel. 94970150 is close to the Place des Lices - the main square.
DAY 10
RETURN HOME
Drive back to Nice to return your car and head to the airport for your return flight.
Pricing (final price is based on time of year and available hotels)
Based on charming 3 star boutique hotels with all amenities €4,395
Based on First Class, 4 star €5,459
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